This spring, Trot Op! crossed the Atlantic to embark on a road trip through Texas, visiting three of the state’s major cities. First stop on the list was Dallas: one of the fastest-growing metropolises in the US and one of the main drivers of the Texan economy. Dallas is more than just a business hub though and offers several surprising neighbourhoods to explore.
Few American states evoke such clear-cut imagery as Texas. When thinking of the Lone Star State, vast open ranches come to mind, where John Wayne types wearing Stetson hats drive massive herds of longhorn cattle to wherever they need to be. Multiple revolvers casually holstered in their belt, they end the day with their cowboy boots up, smoking Marlboros in their local saloon, with at least one American flag waving proudly from the dusty porch. While such classic movie stereotypes will surely still exist in Texas, I didn’t meet a single one when I was there myself.
“Few American states evoke such clear-cut imagery as Texas, but reality in many places is vastly different from what the Hollywood stereotypes have taught us through a century of westerns.”
Texas has much more to offer than just ranches, cowboys and tumbleweed. It’s a remarkably versatile destination. The largest US state after Alaska (hardly anyone lives there though, so let’s just ignore that one) has become a popular relocation spot for Americans from all over the country. They’ve come here to enjoy the economic boom and the fact that you don’t need to be a millionaire yet to live in the heart of a more or less pleasant big city. As a result, the population has been expanding rapidly for years, and the major cities are surprisingly hip, vibrant, and diverse. The Texas you’ll experience in the cities is a melting pot of cultures, far removed from the cliched image I just described above. The goal of my trip was not to explore the great outdoors, but to go for a road trip through three of Texas’s most interesting cities. From Dallas I would drive to lively Austin, to then finish things up by attending the largest street festival of the year in San Antonio. Three cities to visit, all with unique characters and specific strengths. First stop: Dallas.
A Texas road trip: 8 unique and exciting travel tips for Dallas
Dallas might be one of the most well-known cities in the US by name. Not necessarily because it’s one of the most visited – it’s not – but mainly because my parents’ generation spent most of 1980 wondering who the hell shot J.R. Ewing in the cult series of the same name. It remains one of the greatest cliffhangers in television history. Anyone looking up the iconic intro on YouTube after landing in Dallas today, will most likely only recognise the tune. The Dallas skyline anno 2024 looks completely different. This happened because the Dallas-Fort Worth region (Fort Worth is where the cowboys are by the way) is bursting at the seams. Nearly eight million people live here, and in ten years it will be the third-largest urban area in the country after New York and LA.
“Dallas is above all a business city, but it has several unique neighbourhoods to explore. The Dallas art scene is rich and diverse, and the local food is fantastic.”
Dallas is above all a business city. When the East Texas Oil Field was tapped in the 1930s, the city grew into the financial centre of the American oil industry. Nowadays, its economy has diversified. Many tech companies (including about two dozen Fortune 500 companies) have their headquarters here. As a result, Dallasites are sometimes seen as a bunch of arrogant yuppies by the rest of Texas. But as arrogant yuppies tend to do, they don’t really seem to care. Fortunately, there’s much more to do in Dallas than just business. There are several exciting neighbourhoods to discover, the art scene is rich and diverse and the local food is fantastic. Time for a closer look.
1. Deep Ellum: Dallas’s wild rock ‘n’ roll district
The most unique neighbourhood in Dallas can be found just a short walk east of downtown. Deep Ellum was first settled in the late 19th century, around the intersection of two railway lines. This interesting location led to trade, immigration and a lot of comings and goings. It quickly turned into a notorious entertainment district, where jazz and blues legends like Blind Lemon Jefferson and Bessie Smith rose to fame. After those early glory years, the neighbourhood fell into decline, but a cautious revival began in the 1980s. In the last fifteen years, Deep Ellum has thrived like never before. Since 2018, the district’s population has doubled (!!). Therefore, the old guard made it their primary mission to preserve the original atmosphere as much as possible. And that atmosphere is absolutely fantastic. Deep Ellum is a chaotic, colourful district. The old warehouses and commercial buildings now house bars and restaurants, independent shops (Jade & Clover is a great spot for souvenirs) and more than twenty-five live music venues. It’s also heaven for street art lovers, with countless walls covered with often stunning murals. Deep Ellum is a neighbourhood after my own heart, and it turns especially vibrant in the evenings. In many smaller bars, audiences spill outside to watch the local band of the day, but in legendary venues like Trees, bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Tool have performed – even though only about 600 people can be accommodated.
2. Pecan Lodge: enjoy a Texas BBQ in style
Deep Ellum – and by extension Texas as a whole – is a great place to grab a bite. Almost every dish in the Texan cuisine is pure and simple comfort food. It won’t make you any slimmer, but it’ll be incredibly tasty. One of the most famous ambassadors of the local food culture is the Texas BBQ. Pecan Lodge – right here in Deep Ellum – is one of the best places in the entire state to try some. It’s an unpretentious restaurant slow-cooking entire herds of cows and pigs in huge closed barbecues for hours. This technique makes the meat so tender it will fall apart at the touch of a fork. I ordered a brisket sandwich, and it was so succulent and sweet it nearly brought tears to my eyes. At lunchtime, the queue often stretches all the way outside. Your order is called out by a cheerful lady who makes you feel like you’ve just won the local bingo – and given the quality of the food, this is actually somewhat true. Great restaurant, and cheap as well.
3. Dallas Museum of Art: the main museum in the Dallas Arts District
Did you know Dallas is home to the largest arts district in the entire US? Located a few minutes’ walk north of downtown, it offers nearly fifty acres of museums, art galleries and theatres to enjoy. The largest museum in the Dallas Arts District is the aptly named Dallas Museum of Art. This is an enormous building with an almost unfathomable art collection. You’ll find works by many great names in American and European art history (from Warhol and Pollock to Van Gogh, Picasso, Mondriaan and Monet). Additionally, entire wings are dedicated to art from around the world: ceremonial masks from Mali, sculptures from Indonesia, wood carvings from Papua New Guinea and numerous artifacts from various Native American tribes. To see everything, you’ll need more than a few hours. The permanent collection can be visited free of charge.
4. Other museums in the Dallas Arts District
It wouldn’t be called the Dallas Arts District if there was only one museum to visit. So here’s a list of other places to see in the same area.
–Nasher Sculpture Center: a somewhat smaller museum focusing on modern and contemporary sculpture. Many of the works are quite abstract, but you’ll find more fathomable sculptures by Rodin and (surprisingly: didn’t know he made them) Picasso. The large green garden is especially beautiful and serves as one of the best quiet spots in the city.
–Crow Museum of Asian Art: this museum showcases a rich collection of Asian art. Sculptures, textiles, ceramics and paintings from China, Japan, India, Korea, and many Southeast Asian countries. Admission is free.
–Perot Museum of Nature and Science: an interesting natural history museum on various topics from space exploration to the human body. The extensive collection of dinosaur skeletons, including a T-Rex and an Alamosaurus (one of the largest dinos ever discovered) is particularly impressive.
–AT&T Performing Arts Center: not a museum, but a stunning complex for performances and shows. It features a large opera house, two smaller theatres, and an outdoor plaza that can accommodate 2,500 spectators.
5. Klyde Warren Park: a green oasis in the city centre
Feeling a bit worn out after all those museum visits? Head to Klyde Warren Park: the perfect place to unwind after a day of cultural enrichment. This park is part of the Dallas Arts District and was built over a recessed freeway. Now, there are more than two acres of green space to enjoy right in the middle of the city. Various events and sports activities are organised every week, there’s free Wi-Fi, and several food trucks are on hand on the side of the park to satisfy the occasional craving. The surrounding skyline makes for a great and gleamy photo backdrop.
6. Bishop Arts District: an artsy neighbourhood full of independent businesses
The Bishop Arts District is another interesting area in Dallas, a few miles from downtown (getting an Uber is recommended). Broadly speaking, this is a neater, more homely version of Deep Ellum. It’s a low-rise, pedestrian friendly neighbourhood (a rarity in American cities) with charming bars, independent clothing and trinket shops, art galleries, and a few venues for more intimate live music performances (Revelers Hall is recommended for jazz and blues lovers). Personally, I found Wild Detectives to be a fantastic spot. It’s a mix of an alternative bookstore, a coffee shop and a craft beer pub. They often host performances and readings, and the staff are very friendly and helpful. The Bishop Arts District is ideal for those who want to shop or dine in a more relaxed setting. I had a lovely dinner at Stock & Barrel.
7. An eye on downtown Dallas
Dallas is a somewhat atypical city in several ways. For example: downtown Dallas is one of the less interesting areas for tourists – most hotspots are located just outside of it. Therefore, the city centre is sometimes overlooked. There are still a couple of interesting sights to discover in between the business towers though. The AT&T Discovery District (everything seems to be a district here) is an innovative spot with a large LED artwork as a centrepiece. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, lots of public art, and regular events here. Pioneer Plaza features a massive sculpture of forty bronze longhorn cattle stampeding. The strangest piece of art downtown however, is the Giant Eyeball. This is a nine-metre-high, seemingly all-seeing eyeball that’s been left lying somewhere in front of a skyscraper. Slightly unsettling but certainly something you wouldn’t find anywhere else.
8. Sixth Floor Museum: a retrospective on the JFK drama
It may be one of the greatest cliffhangers ever, but J.R. Ewing is only the second most famous person to be shot in Dallas. Unfortunately, the top spot goes to a non-fictional character. In November 1963, during a parade in Dallas, President John F. Kennedy was assassinated by Lee Harvey Oswald. This happened at Dealey Plaza, and the two X’s that still mark the pavement (they could use a new coat of paint by the way) somewhat morbidly indicate the exact spots where the president got hit. Right nearby is the infamous “grassy knoll,” where several witnesses thought they heard a second shooter. Although Jim Carrey openly confessed to the act in one of his films, the presence of a second gunman was never proven. On the floor of the building where the real shots were fired from, you can now visit the Sixth Floor Museum. It provides all details of what happened that day, tells you more about JFK’s life and accomplishments and delves into the investigations and conspiracy theories that followed the assassination. Unfortunately, it was closed during my time in Dallas, so you’ll have to get your inside pics somewhere else.
Hotels in Dallas and more practical information
Want to read more on Dallas as a destination? Visit www.visitdallas.com.
For more information on everything a tourist can and should do in Texas, check out www.traveltexas.com.
We stayed at Lorenzo Hotel Dallas. This place is a short drive from downtown. It looks a bit old-fashioned from the outside, but inside everything is creatively furnished with some real out-of-the-box ideas. The rooms are huge, and the breakfast is top-notch.
Read all about my experiences in Austin and San Antonio, which were part of the same trip. If you’re interested in some other road trips, read my pieces on Eswatini, Malawi, the Black Forest, Scotland, Croatia and Crete.
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