Eswatini Travel Guide: Why This Tiny Country Deserves More Than a Day Trip

Despite being one of Africa’s smallest countries, Eswatini packs a remarkable punch. It offers outstanding safari parks, dramatic mountain landscapes, vibrant cultural traditions and some of the friendliest people on the continent – all within just a few hours’ drive of one another. Eswatini is much more than a quick stop on the way to other adventures: it’s a pocket-sized slice of Southern Africa. After three trips through the kingdom, I decided to bring all of my experiences together in one comprehensive travel guide.

Eswatini (formerly known as Swaziland) is probably one of Africa’s least-known destinations. It’s less than half the size of Belgium and rarely makes international headlines. Touristically, it’s often overlooked in favour of South Africa’s world-famous attractions.

For its size however, it offers an almost astonishing variety of sights and landscapes: from rugged, rocky hills and pine forests to bone-dry African savannah. Everything is within easy reach, making the country particularly easy to explore by car – especially when you consider English is widely spoken and it’s generally quite safe. Add to this a number of affordable safari parks and some colourful cultural traditions, and you get a destination far more diverse than you would expect.

Sadly, most travellers only spend a day or two in Eswatini. They see it as another country to tick off their list while on a longer trip through South Africa, only scratching the surface of what there is to experience. This is a shame, as Eswatini offers almost everything that makes a trip through this part of Africa so rewarding: fantastic wildlife encounters (including all of the Big Five), immersive cultural experiences, spectacular landscapes and meaningful community tourism – all packed into one tiny and accessible kingdom.

One of Eswatini’s greatest strengths is its rich national culture. This is the continent’s only remaining absolute monarchy: a political system both distinctive and controversial. Unlike many of its neighbours, the vast majority of the population belongs to the same ethnic group: the Swazi. This has created a strong national identity and a deep sense of cultural pride that remains visible throughout the country, from traditional ceremonies and festivals to everyday village life.

Eswatini is just a four hour drive from Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo International Airport and requires no visa for EU-citizens, so the biggest obstacle facing the country as a travel destination is not safety or accessibility but visibility. Take the time to explore it properly, and you’ll discover one of Southern Africa’s most rewarding destinations. The chapters below cover everything you need to plan a memorable trip through the kingdom.

 

 

1. Hlane Royal National Park & Mkhaya Game Reserve: Eswatini’s best safari parks

While Eswatini is officially a Big Five country, it doesn’t have one single park where you’ll reliably see all five species. Instead, the animals are spread across two main reserves, meaning you’ll have to visit both if you want to complete the set. Mainly due to relentless poaching, rhinos in particular have become quite difficult to spot in many African safari parks. Not so in Eswatini. The country’s reserves are smaller and exceptionally well protected, so poaching losses are extremely rare. Ironically, that makes rhinos the easiest members of the Big Five to spot.

Hlane Royal National Park is the most “complete” safari park in Eswatini, and chances are you’ll see a whole group of white rhinos lounge around the waterhole when you arrive at Ndlovu Camp – the main lodge here. They even offer rhino walks, where you’ll hike through the park with a ranger. Last time I was there, we stumbled upon four absolute units having a scuffle. These guys generally come across as quite relaxed and even playful – if you don’t spook them that is. I never felt like I was in any actual danger – not even when a female with a calf passed right by me. Should you ever come across a black rhino on a hike (they’re the ones with the pointy upper lips): find a large tree and climb it fast.

There are plenty of other animals to look for in Hlane. Lions and elephants are seen on most game drives, as well as giraffes, zebras and a large variety of antelopes. Self-drives are allowed in the rhino area. Don’t drive too close to them though, your insurance doesn’t cover a flipped-over car. The main camp is a lovely place to stay. It comes with a great restaurant and is completely off the grid – you can warm yourself at a large campfire every night. Bhubesi Camp is about 15 km away from the main site and offers self-catering cottages (these do have electricity). Staying in Hlane is surprisingly affordable. You can book a very comfortable cottage for about €50 a night. You’ll have to pay separately for game drives and food though.

 

Mkhaya Game Reserve is about half the size of Hlane (about 105 km²) and focuses more on conservation and intimate wildlife encounters. It’s a more exclusive park, and its Stone Camp is a gorgeous little lodge where you’ll stay in half open cottages. This means that the only thing separating you from the wilderness is a stone wall less than three feet high. When I woke up one morning, I found hyena tracks leading right up to my tiny gate. According to the rangers this happens all the time, but nobody has ever gone missing. This either means the park is safe, or the hyena-lobby is far more powerful than we ever imagined.

There are currently no lions or elephants in Mkhaya, but they do have white rhinos and cape buffalos – the meanest things on the African savannah – and it’s one of the few parks where you can spot black rhinos (less than 6,000 of them are left in the wild). Mkhaya works with an all-inclusive system and is significantly more expensive than Hlane (around €200-275 per night), but sleeping in these unique stone cottages – the shower and toilet both face the forest, by the way – is worth it.

 

2. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary: Eswatini’s most unique wildlife experience

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary was Eswatini’s first protected wildlife reserve and played a pioneering role in the country’s conservation story. It’s not a Big Five park and covers only about 50 km², yet it’s by far the kingdom’s most popular reserve. This is because it’s close to the two main cities and very affordable – you’ll see plenty of day-tripping Swazi families here – but also because it offers a unique experience few African parks can match.

Because there are no big cats or elephants around, you can head out on your own here without a worry. You can pull a Snow White and skip through herds of zebras and wildebeest, explore various mountain biking tracks or discover the park on horseback. The only place where you genuinely need to be careful is the large pond near the main lodge: there are some truly gigantic Nile crocs in there, so you might want to stay clear.

 

That main lodge is called The Rest Camp, and offers traditional beehive huts complete with private bathrooms and electricity. Take a look outside after sunset and you might see nyalas wandering straight by your door, and in the morning a family of resident warthogs will be warming up next to you by the campfire.

There are two other places to stay in Mlilwane. Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge is the park’s most luxurious accommodation: a historic stone lodge perched high up on the slopes of Nyonyane Mountain in a gorgeous botanical garden. Sondzela Backpackers is the park’s lively hostel, where you can book private rooms, dorm beds or even pitch your own tent. Those looking for a bit more adventure should tackle the hike to Execution Rock: an exposed granite summit with sweeping views across Mlilwane and the surrounding Ezulwini Valley.

 

3. Malolotja Nature Reserve & Sibebe Rock: hiking through Eswatini’s highlands

Eswatini can broadly be divided into three geographical regions. The Highveld is mountainous, forested and can get surprisingly chilly. The Lowveld is hot, dry African bush, while the Middleveld is subtropical and somewhere in between, making it the agricultural heartland of the country.

As far as I’m concerned, Eswatini’s most beautiful landscape can be found in Malolotja Nature Reserve near the northwestern border. This is the country’s largest protected area and pure Highveld: full of wind-shaped rock formations, vast mountain plains and the occasional waterfall. You’ll spot plenty of antelope and birds here, and it’s an ideal place for a brisk hike. Want something a little more adventurous? Take the canopy tour with a guide and soar through the treetops from rock face to rock face.

 

Another shorter but worthwhile walk in the area is the one to the Nsangwini Rock Art. You’ll descend a mountain trail in the middle of nowhere until you get to an overhanging rock. Hidden beneath it are the largest and most detailed San (Bushman) rock paintings in the country – dating back up to 4,000 years. Some of the drawings show strange winged human figures.

Also close to Malolotja is the country’s most jaw-dropping geological site. Sibebe Rock is a three-billion-year-old volcanic slab of granite rising to a height of almost 1,500 meters. It’s the world’s largest exposed granite dome (my forehead is a close second), and the second-largest monolithic rock in the world, only surpassed by Australia’s Uluru. The mountain makes for an impressive sight, especially after a downpour when it glistens like silver. It’s prime hiking and birding territory and Sibebe Resort offers a range of activities from quad biking and ziplining to mountain climbing and spelunking. One last thing: the road up to Sibebe is pretty rough. Unless you enjoy stress-testing rental cars, an SUV is a very good idea.

 

4. Umhlanga: Eswatini’s spectacular Reed Dance Festival

The most impressive way to witness Swazi culture is to attend the Umhlanga Reed Festival. More than 40,000 participants take part in the celebrations every year, making Umhlanga one of the largest traditional cultural festivals anywhere in Africa, and Eswatini’s biggest annual event. It takes place in late August or early September. I had the pleasure of being one of the official photographers a couple of years ago – one of my most lasting memories of the country.

At its heart, the Reed Dance Festival is a week-long traditional rite of passage and a celebration of womanhood. Thousands of young unmarried women from every corner of the country travel to the Ludzidzini Royal Residence in Lobamba with a sturdy bundle of river reeds under their arms. They’ll present these to the Queen Mother to repair the royal fence (I’m not making this up). Legend has it that if the reed is carried by unclean, non-virginal hands, it would wither on the spot (maybe this is why all my plants keep dying).

The next day, everyone moves to the national stadium nearby to perform traditional dances for the royal family and thousands of spectators. This is done in colourful and (very) revealing attire and is incredibly impressive to witness. Everyone is dressed up in traditional ceremonial outfits, even the king’s bodyguards and the camera crews.

 

What makes the Reed Dance Festival truly special is that this is not your typical little show performed for tourists in safari lodges and “cultural villages”. It’s an expression of Swazi identity and national pride, by and for the Swazi themselves, and you’re no more than a casual spectator. Admission to the stadium is free by the way. Why are you still here? If your schedule is flexible, this is the single best reason to visit Eswatini in late August or early September.

Malandela’s Guest House (described in more detail later) is a great place to stay while attending the festival, just a short drive from the festivities. Book several months in advance if you plan to visit during Umhlanga.

 

5. Bushfire Festival & other events in Eswatini

Eswatini hosts several other festivals throughout the year, and one of the country’s most popular takes place right next to Malandela’s Guest House. MTM Bushfire is a three-day music and arts festival held over the last weekend of May. It draws over 20,000 people from across the globe, features some of Africa’s biggest artists and sells out months in advance. It takes place at House on Fire: a creative Gaudí-esque open-air amphitheatre. Bushfire is an inclusive event, promoting artistic freedom, social change and LGBTQ+ inclusion. This stands in noticeable contrast to the government’s usual conservative stance on these issues.

Another fun event – be it a bit more niche – is the Swazi Rally, usually organised on the same weekend as the Reed Dance Festival. Hundreds of leather-clad bikers from all over the country and beyond come together at Riders Ranch south of Manzini, to enjoy a weekend of rock music, roaring engines, stunt riding and drag racing. The atmosphere is great, the beer is cold and the audience fantastically dressed. Think a mix of Mad Max, Shaft and the Hell’s Angels. Not your usual pottery at the local village.

Very important culturally – but much less accessible to visitors – is Incwala, also known as the First Fruits Ceremony. This is Eswatini’s most sacred event: a six-day ritual taking place in late December or early January, dedicated to cleansing the nation, renewing the land and reinforcing the King’s spiritual power. Often seen as the male counterpart to the Reed Dance, the ceremony includes a traditional test of manhood for young men, involving barehanded bullfighting (don’t worry: it’s a group effort, not just one skinny fifteen-year-old taking on an angry bull), massive ritual dances and a giant bonfire. Photography is strictly prohibited, everyone is expected to wear traditional attire and some of the festivities are closed to outsiders.

 

6. Shewula Mountain Camp: community tourism done right

The majority of people in Eswatini live in small rural communities, and many of them are struggling. I’ve long stopped participating in so-called poverty tourism, but in Eswatini you can visit local villages without it becoming exploitative. Shewula Mountain Camp in the east of the country is one of the places where they do this best.

Shewula is a community-run camp built on an impressive cliff from which you can see half the country, and where you’ll sleep in traditional stone cottages. Lindiwe – the woman who runs the camp and grew up nearby – will gladly take you to a nearby village (or to a medicine man if you want your bald spot gone). There you can talk to people at your own pace and with mutual respect. Made some new friends? You can decide to support a family through the camp. My parents for example, have been supporting the girl in blue on the picture above for over ten years now. She finished school and is now raising a son of her own.

The camp carefully manages all donations and will use them to provide school supplies, food and other basic necessities to those in need, so that they’re less dependent on their often unpredictable harvests. You’ll see exactly where your money is going and you’ll stay in touch with those benefiting from it. I used to get school report cards by email, and we’ve been talking on Whatsapp for years now. PS: getting to Shewula means taking a dirt road up the plateau for about an hour: another adventure best tackled in a 4WD.

 

One final bonus: Shewula overlooks Mbuluzi Game Reserve: one of Eswatini’s best-kept secrets. Mbuluzi is a privately managed reserve that focuses on peaceful self-drive safaris and longer stays in nature. This lesser-known park is home to giraffes, hippos, crocs and a wide range of antelopes and birds. It offers fantastic lodges and whole holiday homes with private decks and plunge pools for about €50-100 per person. Mbuluzi operates entirely on a self-catering basis, and the lodges are spaced out far away from each other, making for very private stays. Because there are no large predators about, you can leisurely explore the reserve on foot. Hlane is just a 15-minute drive away if you want lions and elephants.

 

7. Swazi Candles, Tintsaba, Ngwenya Glass & Gone Rural: Eswatini’s creative side

There’s a vibrant artisan scene to discover in Eswatini, with plenty of local markets where you can come across handmade products. Four places in particular stand out, each specialising in a different craft. If you’re looking for souvenirs that genuinely support local communities instead of ending up in another airport gift shop, these are the places to spend your money. Here’s an overview in no particular order.

Swazi Candles is a workshop set in the middle of a lively craft market in Malkerns Valley in between Mbabane and Lobamba. Here, artisans create colourful handmade candles, using a technique inspired by traditional Venetian glassblowing, but replacing molten glass with hard wax. With this technique they create cool candles shaped like animals in a matter of minutes. The workshop is open to the public, so you can see them manipulate the hot malleable wax into little rhinos and elephants like it’s the easiest thing in the world. Want to give it a try? You can buy a lump of wax and try your hand at shaping your own candle. You’ll most likely fail, but at least everyone’ll get a good laugh out of it.

Tintsaba is another workshop tucked away in the mountainous northern region of Piggs Peak. They make award-winning handwoven baskets out of Lutindzi grass here, as well as home decorations and high-end contemporary jewellery. Tintsaba is community-run and fair-trade. It was founded in the eighties with just twelve workers, but now employs and trains over 1,400 rural women. The project allows them to earn an independent income while working from home. The quality of the products is fantastic. A single small basket can take up to fifty hours to weave by hand.

 

Another excellent social enterprise is Gone Rural near Malkerns. While Tintsaba specialises in basket weaving, Gone Rural produces contemporary textiles, tableware and home décor in collaboration with international designers. Like Tintsaba, it provides employment to hundreds of rural women and has become one of Eswatini’s best-known ethical brands.

More into glassblowing? Ngwenya Glass near Mbabane and the main South African border crossing is another worthwhile stop. Here, they produce 100% recycled, hand-blown glassware: from whisky and wine glasses to sculptures of the local wildlife. The glass is collected by local communities and school children (who earn school funds and sports sponsorships through it). There’s an elevated viewing platform directly above the factory floor, where you can see the glassblowers at work. Some of the profits go straight into the rhino conservation efforts of nearby Mkhaya Game Reserve.

 

8. Ezulwini Valley & Eswatini’s main cities

Eswatini isn’t a city-break destination – far from it. Its towns are mainly places where you’ll eat, shop or spend the night between safaris and hikes. Fortunately, many of the country’s main attractions are clustered around the Ezulwini Valley between Mbabane and Manzini, making it the perfect base for exploring central Eswatini.

This lush valley (aptly nicknamed “The Valley of Heaven”) is the tourist heart of the country and is surrounded by green, rocky hills dotted with hotels, restaurants and craft markets. Ezulwini and the neighbouring Malkerns Valley are where you’ll find Mlilwane, Swazi Candles and House on Fire. Mantenga Cultural Village is also located here and offers an excellent introduction to what a traditional Swazi homestead looked and felt like. Nearby Mantenga Falls is the highest waterfall in the country.

Just down the road lies Lobamba, one of Eswatini’s two (yes) official capitals. Mbabane is the administrative centre, while Lobamba is the spiritual and legislative heart of the kingdom. This is where Parliament sits and where many of the country’s royal ceremonies take place. The Eswatini National Museum is here as well: a somewhat modest place that provides a decent overview of Swazi history. King Sobhuza II Memorial Park lies directly opposite to it, and is a beautifully maintained garden with some national monuments and the royal mausoleum. There’s also an impressive collection of royal cars to admire, including several gleaming Rolls-Royces once used by King Sobhuza II.

 

Mbabane itself is a surprisingly small but functional low-rise city draped across a couple of green hillsides at the northern end of Ezulwini Valley. It’s certainly not Cape Town, but it has a pleasant two-storey market with lots of handicraft shops and its skyline is dominated by the Hilton Garden Inn: a bizarre, ultra-modern structure that looks like a UFO just landed smack in the middle of a random town. The rooftop terrace is excellent though, and the rates surprisingly affordable.

Manzini lies about 30km southeast of Ezulwini Valley, and is Eswatini’s largest urban centre as well as its main commercial hub. It’s hot, crowded and loud, and basically the only place where you’ll get a truly urban feeling. Manzini Market is great to wander through, especially its fascinating traditional medicine section. Ask politely before taking pictures here. The vendors are very protective of their image and trade secrets.

 

9. The best hotels and lodges in Eswatini: some of my favourite stays

Eswatini has some lovely places to spend the night, and I’ve already mentioned several of them throughout this guide. A few others deserve a special mention, so here are some of my personal favourites.

Foresters Arms in the Highveld pine forests is one of my favourites. This is a classic hotel in cosy English cottage style. It’s not the world’s most modern venue but it exudes warmth, charm and old-fashioned hospitality. They take care of you here, and the majority of the staff have been at their jobs for many years. The kitchen is one of the best in the country. There’s a different menu every evening, and the leftovers are transformed into an excellent lunch the following day. Every Sunday there’s a massive lunch buffet, which is very popular among the locals. Chill out by the pool, go horseback riding through the woods or enjoy the birds chirping in front of your window. The world can be a peaceful place.

Malandela’s Guest House is most likely the hippest venue to stay in Eswatini. All of the rooms are colourfully decorated, the gardens are beautifully kept and you’re surrounded by a creative, artsy atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the country. The guest house is part of a bigger hub called Malandela’s Lifestyle Centre, which includes the House on Fire amphitheatre, a restaurant and a cluster of boutique craft shops, social enterprises and local food and drink producers. There’s even someone making and selling their own hot sauce (it’s called Black Mamba).

 

Looking for something more luxurious? The Summerfield Botanical Garden should be right up your alley. This is a beautifully landscaped estate full of exotic plants and water birds. Its Garden Villas & Executive Suites are freestanding luxury pavilions with big windows and rich mahogany furniture, and are cleverly screened by the foliage so you can spend time on your terrace in total privacy.

Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge, near Piggs Peak, is something completely different. Hidden deep in a riverine forest, it’s an eco-conscious retreat surrounded by waterfalls, natural rock pools and excellent hiking trails. Accommodation ranges from luxury beehive huts and forest cottages to stylish safari tents. It’s one of the best places in Eswatini to completely switch off for a couple of days.

 

Practical information for a trip to Eswatini

**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting hotels in this article. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a hotel in Eswatini, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**

My trip to Eswatini was made possible with the help of the Eswatini Tourism Authority. For more information about the country and its attractions, surf to: www.thekingdomofeswatini.com. This article was last updated (and completely overhauled) in July 2026.

Looking for the best tours or experiences in Eswatini? Check out GetYourGuide for the best overview and book your favourites.

 

Flights to Eswatini & border crossings

Most travellers reach Eswatini via Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo International Airport, followed by a four-hour drive to the border. This is usually cheaper than flying directly to Eswatini and also gives you much more flexibility.

If you’re renting a car in South Africa, make sure your rental company allows cross-border travel. Most do, but you’ll usually need to request a letter of permission and pay a small cross-border fee in advance.

I usually entered Eswatini through Ngwenya Border Post, the country’s busiest crossing. Procedures are generally straightforward. Most EU citizens don’t need a visa for short tourist stays, but always check the latest entry requirements before departure, as immigration rules can change.

Those travelling without a car can also take the comfortable SiyeSwatini Transmagnific bus between Johannesburg and Mbabane/Manzini. It leaves straight from the airport.

 

Driving in Eswatini

Eswatini is one of the easiest countries in Africa to explore independently. Most main roads are in good condition and signposted reasonably well. Driving is on the left, just like in neighbouring South Africa.

A normal car is perfectly adequate for most destinations. Only places like Shewula Mountain Camp, Sibebe Rock or some lodges around Phophonyane Falls become considerably easier to reach with a 4WD, especially after heavy rain.

When I rent a car, I usually compare offers through DiscoverCars, which also works well for Eswatini.

 

Vaccinations & malaria

Check with your doctor well before departure to see which vaccinations you still need to take care of.

Malaria risk in Eswatini is limited and seasonal. The cooler Highveld around Mbabane, Piggs Peak and Malolotja is generally considered low risk. The warmer Lowveld in the east of the country, including Hlane, Mkhaya and areas near the Mozambican border, carries a higher (though still relatively modest) risk, particularly during and after the rainy season. Bring insect repellent regardless, and discuss malaria pills with your doctor if you’ll be visiting these regions. I usually take them anyway, because they don’t bother me and I’m never staying for months at an end.

 

Money & tipping

Eswatini uses the lilangeni (SZL), which is pegged one-to-one to the South African Rand. Rand are accepted almost everywhere, so there’s no real need to exchange large amounts of local currency if you’re already travelling through South Africa.

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, lodges and restaurants, but it’s useful to carry some cash for markets, smaller shops and tipping.

As elsewhere in southern Africa, tipping forms an important part of many people’s income. I usually tip safari guides after each drive (around $5–10 is quite decent). Don’t forget to leave something for restaurant staff and put something in the staff tip box at lodges.

 

Mobile data

If you’re travelling independently, I highly recommend installing an eSIM before departure. I’ve been using Airalo for years, which works well in Eswatini and saves you the hassle of buying a local SIM card after arrival.

 

More guides and other trips

Want to visit more Southern African countries? I recently wrote an even longer guide for Malawi – another very underestimated destination.

More into Asia? I wrote a guide for every important neighbourhood in Tokyo and Seoul, as well as shorter articles on Kanazawa and Jeju Island.

Looking for a European city break? Check out my insanely detailed Antwerp guide (I live there), or visit Prague, Lucerne or Liège.