Riemst is a peaceful rural municipality in the south of Belgian Limburg, tucked between Maastricht and Tongeren. Rolling hills, quiet villages, vineyards and scenic cycling and hiking routes define the landscape, but some of the most remarkable sights are hidden underground. Beneath the streets lies a vast network of marl quarries, cellars and caves that make Riemst unlike anywhere else in Belgium. Trot Op! packed some cycling gear and went exploring for a weekend.
Have any of you ever deliberately been to Riemst? Come on, raise your imaginary hands. I’m guessing there might be a few among you, but it can’t possibly be an overwhelming number. Riemst is simply not a well-known destination and often gets overlooked in favour of nearby cities like Maastricht or Tongeren. “Unknown is unloved,” we say in Belgium – and in this case, that’s a real shame.
Riemst is a place of wide open landscapes and slow travel. You cycle along quiet country roads from hamlet to hamlet, over gentle hills and past vineyards and farmland. Avoid the few main roads and you’ll barely see a car. Birds scatter from the grass as you pass by, some of them you will never see in a city. It’s the kind of place that sometimes makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a different world.
I’ll back that up with a small anecdote. On my first day in Riemst, I parked my expensive electric rental bike near the Vroenhoven Bridge – and because I’m a massive fool, forgot to lock it. When I came trudging back hours later, it was still there. Ashamed but unscathed, I continued my journey. Back home in Antwerp, this story would have ended very differently.
Things to do in Riemst: caves, wine, nature and history
Hiking and cycling are of course pleasant pastimes, but they won’t fill an entire travel guide to Riemst by themselves. Fortunately, this small municipality has a few genuinely unique attractions to offer as well.
Did you know that Belgium’s largest and oldest wine estate is located in Riemst? It comes with an impressive castle, sprawling vineyards and guided tours through the cellars. Riemst also played an important role at the very start of WWII, when German troops crossed the border here in May 1940 – a story that can be explored in detail at a local museum near the Albert Canal.
Still, the most remarkable sights in Riemst are found underground. Beneath the streets and villages lies a vast network of more than 300 kilometres of marl caves and corridors. The Marl Caves of Riemst are among the most extensive underground quarry systems in Europe, and they hide all sorts of unexpected curiosities: from wine cellars and rice pies to an underground wedding chapel, bat colonies and even the remains of a real mosasaur. Fortunately, it’s been dead for quite some time now – but it can still be visited. I explored the caves myself and then went on to visit every other major hotspot Riemst has to offer.
1. The Kanne Caves (Grotten van Kanne): exploring Riemst’s underground world
The Kanne Caves, also known as the Grotten van Kanne, are Riemst’s most famous attraction – although technically they’re not natural caves at all, but former marl quarries. For centuries, these underground halls were carved out of the soft limestone by hand by so-called block breakers. What remains today is an extensive network of long, straight corridors with high ceilings, looking more like an Egyptian tomb or a secret underground base than a natural cave system.
In the past, the extracted limestone was used in buildings throughout the region, but the stone cutters disappeared long ago. The underground corridors, however, never fell into disuse. Over the years, they’ve served as cellars for houses above ground – some of which still have private entrances – as storage spaces for bakers and winegrowers, and as shelters during wartime. One of their most remarkable uses though, has been mushroom cultivation.
Cave mushrooms have been grown here for decades. Once a thriving local industry, it nearly vanished in the 1950s when one of the largest plantations collapsed, which made nearly all companies decide growing mushrooms above ground had its charm as well. Today, Dirk Jackers is the last producer still cultivating authentic cave mushrooms in the Kanne Caves. Together with his faithful helper Jot, he picks several tons of them by hand every year. Because the temperature in the caves is 11C° all year round, the mushrooms grow slower, making the texture firmer and the taste more pronounced. This makes Dirk’s cave mushrooms a sought-after delicacy. They’re sold all over the country and several local restaurants (see list below) put them in their dishes.
Good to know: the mushroom plantation can only be visited as part of a guided tour organised by VZW De Grotten van Kanne. These tours cover the highlights of the cave system and are done in larger groups. Because I explored the caves with Dirk, I didn’t book a standard tour.
2. The Zichen Marl Caves: cave art, history and bats beneath Riemst
The Zichen Marl Caves are the second underground attraction in Riemst, and they feel completely different from the vast corridors of the Kanne Caves. Here, the marl was excavated on a much smaller scale by local residents, resulting in a seemingly random labyrinth beneath the village of Zichen, with narrow passages and low ceilings.
The atmosphere is almost reminiscent of the pyramids: the first things you notice when descending the stairs are the sandy floors, an Egyptian-looking sculpture and a series of mysterious hieroglyphics. Not a coincidence, as Belgian pop group (for kids) K3 once filmed its glorious masterpiece “The Dance of the Pharaoh” here. I was shown around by Nicolas Kayeux: the grandson of the man who first opened the caves to visitors. For decades, his grandfather decorated the underground chambers with his own wall art, a tradition that was continued by other local artists.
Much of this cave art depicts fragments of local history. Somewhere in the underground maze, there’s even a hidden altar. During the French occupation, a priest in hiding used it to secretly hold masses beneath the village. Nature has also claimed part of the caves. If you look closely, you’ll spot several bats dozing in the cavities in the ceiling – slightly annoyed by the sudden light. Visits to the Zichen Marl Caves are only possible by appointment, but they offer one of the most pleasant and atmospheric underground experiences in Riemst.
3. Wine tasting in Riemst: Genoels-Elderen and Wijndomein Vlijtingen
The marl in the soil beneath Riemst isn’t only fun to carve underground mazes in – it’s also perfectly suited for vineyards. Grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir thrive here, making Riemst one of the most interesting wine regions in Belgian Limburg.
Wine Castle Genoels-Elderen is the most iconic wine estate in Riemst. Set in a romantic castle surrounded by vineyards, it’s the oldest and largest wine estate in Belgium. From May to August, the estate opens its wine terrace, where you can enjoy a glass and a light snack in the sun. Guided walks through the vineyards, gardens and wine cellars can be booked throughout the season.
For a more intimate experience, head to Wijndomein Vlijtingen. This younger, four-hectare estate is run by Herman Meers, who started producing wine on the old family farm just over a decade ago and still leads the guided tours himself. Like his colleagues at Genoels-Elderen, he produces high-quality dry white and sparkling wines. Some of his bottles even mature underground in the Kanne Caves, a detail you’ll get to see during a visit.
Good to know: although Wine Castle Genoels-Elderen is often described as Belgium’s oldest wine estate, commercial wine production only began here in 1990. Belgian viticulture is still very young. Hooray for global warming (this once)!
4. Dairy goat farm Noelmans: artisanal cheese and farm life in Riemst
In the small village of Membruggen, part of the Riemst municipality, you’ll find Dairy Goat Farm Noelmans. Some people suddenly get struck by the word of God, abandon everything else and join the church. For José Noelmans, it went the other way around.
After six years as a parish priest, José decided to hang up his chasuble and take over the family farm. Twenty years later, he’s happily married, has four children and runs a thriving dairy goat farm. Visitors are welcome to stop by the small farm shop to buy artisanal goat cheese (made with his milk, though not on the premises) or a scoop of surprisingly good goat’s milk ice cream.
If you’re not in a hurry, it’s well worth booking a tour of the farm. You’ll get a look at the milking installations and the stables, home to around 500 goats, including plenty of curious young ones. José is a fun guide and a great storyteller, and although he’s no longer a priest he never quite abandoned his faith. When he’s not farming, he teaches religion at the agricultural school – “Right when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!”
5. The best hiking routes in Riemst and Belgian Limburg
As already eloquently put in my introduction, Riemst is an excellent destination for hiking. There are several routes available, all well-indicated by coloured symbols on poles at every fork in the road, so you’ll have to really try hard to actually get lost.
I chose the purple route, an eight-kilometre walk starting at the car park beneath the bridge over the Albert Canal in Kanne. The trail leads across the Caestert Plateau: a beautiful nature reserve that partly lies in the Netherlands. Along the way, you’ll cross the border several times without even noticing – isn’t the European Union nice?
After barely a kilometre, you’ll leave civilisation behind to follow winding paths through a varied landscape of dense forests and swaying fields. Traces of the old marl quarries are still visible here, including a somewhat sinister, Hobbiton-like dwelling carved into the hillside. You probably won’t spot any hobbits, but you might run into a flock of Mergelland sheep: hardy animals released here to keep the grass in check.
I had some rough luck with the weather and only set out after dinner, but that turned out to be quite nice. The setting sun made for some glorious light you simply won’t experience at noon.
6. Cycling routes in Riemst: explore Belgian Limburg by bike
Want to cover a bit more ground? Riemst is an excellent destination for cycling as well: it’s full of quiet roads, gentle hills and wide-open landscapes. The municipality is fully integrated into the well-known fietsknooppunten network: a system of numbered signposts allowing you to follow cycling routes with ease, even without a map.
I followed the Agricultural Route: a loop of about 25 kilometres connecting several of Riemst’s villages while leading you through the surrounding countryside. The route passes grain and barley fields, vineyards and fruit orchards, with plenty of opportunities to stop along the way. Strategically placed benches invite you to pause, take in the view and enjoy the slow rhythm of rural Limburg.
This cycling route takes you past both Dairy Goat Farm Noelmans and Wine Castle Genoels-Elderen, making it easy to combine exercise with food and wine. If you’re ready for a more substantial lunch, stop at De Waterburcht in Millen. This is a historic building surrounded by a moat and a temporary sheep pasture. It houses an excellent brasserie where you can try dishes featuring local cave mushrooms.
7. Vroenhoven Bridge: World War II history in Riemst
In this part of Limburg, the Albert Canal runs parallel to the River Meuse and the Dutch border. When the canal was completed shortly before WWII, it was supposed to be Belgium’s primary defensive line against a German invasion. Control of its bridges was crucial – and in Riemst, that made Vroenhoven Bridge a strategic target.
On 10 May 1940, a dozen Belgian soldiers stationed in a bunker at the bridge were caught off guard after weeks of false alarms. In a devastating move, German troops were dropped behind enemy lines using silent gliders. The defenders were quickly overwhelmed, the bridge was captured before it could be blown up and the invasion of Belgium had begun. Riemst paid a heavy price: villages like Kanne and Vroenhoven were almost completely evacuated, and many lives were lost in the first days of the war.
Today, the bunker still stands guard beside the bridge and houses a two-level museum. One part focuses on the German invasion, the battle for Riemst and daily life during the war; the other explains inland shipping and the functioning of the Albert Canal, including an interactive installation where you can guide a virtual ship through a lock. The war section, in particular, is very interesting and quite moving. A wall filled with photographs and names puts faces to the casualties. None of the soldiers were older than me or even close to my age: barely any of them had reached thirty. It’s always the young fighting old people’s wars.
8. Where to stay in Riemst: B&B Time-Out in Zussen
For my weekend in Riemst, I stayed at B&B Time-Out in the small village of Zussen. Located right next to the local church, this bed and breakfast in Riemst is run by Sisi and Marc, who welcome their guests personally and make you feel more like you’re staying with friends than checking into accommodation.
A fresh rice pie from Patisserie Smets – ripened in the marl caves – was waiting for me on arrival, and in the morning a bag of bread rolls appeared on the door handle. B&B Time-Out has five spacious units that function as full holiday apartments, making it a good option for families as well as couples.
I slept in the apartment called 5 o’ Clock, which has two bedrooms (plus an extra bed), a comfortable sitting and dining area and a fully equipped kitchen. One particularly nice extra was the old-school arcade cabinet in the living room. It came with more than 5,000 games – including just about every nineties classic. Had plenty of fun with it the first evening, and unlike in the old days, I didn’t have to feed it half my allowance to keep playing.
Practical information for visiting Riemst
This article was created with the support of Visit Riemst, the official tourism organisation of the municipality. For up-to-date information on attractions, events, guided tours, cycling and hiking routes, visit the official website: www.visitriemst.be.
Restaurants in Riemst serving cave mushrooms:
Curious to taste authentic cave mushrooms from the marl caves? These restaurants in and around Riemst regularly feature them on the menu:
–De Waterburcht: brasserie in a historic moated building.
–K-Kanne: hip lunch spot in Kanne (open during the day only).
–Opcanner Anker: cosy restaurant in the Kanne marina.
–Hild’Ice: ice cream parlour in Kanne with surprisingly good food.
More trips in Limburg and Belgium:
Looking for inspiration for another trip in Belgian Limburg? Read my travel guide to Hasselt and Genk, or discover Limburg’s main nature reserves. Prefer a different part of Belgium? You can also read my articles on Koksijde, Gaume and Viroinval.
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