Tokyo Neighbourhood Travel Guide: The Most Important Areas Explained

 Tokyo is more than just a city. It’s a bafflingly huge metropolis with more inhabitants than most countries, made up of dozens of different areas with their own vibe and function. This guide focuses on Tokyo’s most important neighbourhoods for travellers: where to go, what makes each place unique and which districts fit different travel styles. Venture from historic Edo to modern Japan, and discover the most interesting sites along the way – as well as some spicy hidden gems.

For some reason I’d never been to Tokyo until late 2024, but when I finally did, it was love at first sight. I stayed for weeks, visiting neighbourhood after neighbourhood, and willingly got myself lost in the endless urban maze. When I left, it was reluctantly, and it’s been my favourite city ever since. There are many reasons for this. Tokyo is absolutely gigantic, but this immense size never feels like a burden weighing down on you. This is because most things in Tokyo were put together on a human scale. Tokyo just works: navigation is a piece of cake, daily life runs smoothly and most of the city is so clean you could slurp up your ramen bowl straight from the pavement (don’t actually do this: kind of rude).

What also makes Tokyo special, is how it alternates some of the world’s busiest neighbourhoods with places that’ll make you feel completely at peace. A fifteen minute walk is usually all it takes to get you from an overcrowded shopping boulevard to a beautiful park or a picturesque alley straight from an old Japanese painting. Tokyo is a true global giant, with its own unique culture, often bizarre but always fun entertainment and one of the world’s best cuisines. From cosy second-hand stores and tranquil temples to wild nightlife districts and futuristic attractions, Tokyo combines a good old dash of nostalgia with all the flashiness and excitement of a modern Asia-Pacific capital.

“Tokyo feels overwhelming only until you realise it’s made to be lived in.”

Also quite unique to Tokyo is that, unlike the majority of European capitals, the city has no actual, specific downtown. Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace are the geographical centre, but the city’s real heart beats in countless other places. Dozens of “downtowns” are scattered all over, all with their own distinctive assets. These are the engines that make the entire machine run: islands of hyperactivity rising up from the endless ocean of apartment buildings and office towers.

Administratively, Tokyo was divided into 23 special wards. These are areas that have their own administration and function as cities within the city. I could discuss them one by one, but for tourists this subdivision is not very useful. This is why I’ll limit myself to covering the most important specific neighbourhoods and why you should visit them. Along the way, I’ll leave you with a number of lesser known personal favourites as well. Each title lists the essence of the area in three key words. This allows you to quickly skim through the text until something piques your interest.

The article is logically structured for first-time visitors to Tokyo, and by the end of the ride you should have a clear idea of which itinerary will work the best for your trip and interests. If you want to dig deeper into a couple of specific areas, click the names in the paragraphs and you’ll be taken to my older, more detailed articles. There’s an info section near the bottom of the page as well, with some general travel information on Japan. Have fun with it!

**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting activities or hotels in this article. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a tour or hotel in Tokyo, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**

 

1. Asakusa: Tradition – Temples – Old-Tokyo

As I booked my hotel here, Asakusa was where my own Tokyo story started. In retrospect this was a great choice. For first-time visitors, Asakusa is one of the best possible places to experience traditional Tokyo. It’s a beautiful, atmospheric neighbourhood and the perfect starting point for those who want to understand the rest of the city. At first glance, Asakusa feels slightly removed from Tokyo’s modern core – a few miles northeast of the “centre” – but it’s still a very popular tourist hangout. This is because it’s one of the few districts where you can easily see glimpses of a much older city. The place radiates pure nostalgia.

The main attraction is of course Sensoji: the oldest, largest and probably most beautiful temple in Tokyo. During the day it’s – just like in the traditional shopping street (Nakamise-dori) leading to it – incredibly busy, full of tourists in kimonos. If you want to visit the temple in peace, return after sunset: the grounds are always accessible and at night the buildings are beautifully lit.

A stone’s throw from Sensoji – hidden between some old apartment blocks – you’ll find Asakusa Hanayashiki. This is the oldest amusement park in Japan: surprisingly idyllic and great for young children. A little further from the temple, the area quickly becomes much calmer, and you can stroll through several covered shopping and food arcades.

East of the district is the Sumida River. A pleasant promenade was built along its bank: great for munching on your 7-Eleven Tamago Sando. Across the water, you’ll see the impressive Tokyo Skytree towering over everything else: the world’s second tallest building with (of course) the highest observation deck in the entire city. Further south lies Ryogoku Kokugikan: the capital’s most important arena for sumo wrestling.

Hotels in Asakusa:

Asakusa has some of Tokyo’s best budget and mid-range accommodation options, especially when you’re a first-time visitor.
–Juyoh Hotel (budget): cosy, but very basic hotel I happily spent two weeks in myself. Comes with a walk-in restaurant and a communal kitchen.
–Nui. Hostel & Bar Lounge (budget): lively hostel offering dorms as well as private rooms.
–Onyado Nono Asakusa Natural Hot Spring (midrange): beautiful place right next to Sensoji, with traditional Japanese rooms and an onsen (hot tub/spring).

Activities in Asakusa:

-book a walking tour to the main attractions.
-rent a real kimono.
-go for a zen meditation session with a monk in a temple.
-attend a sumo school morning training session.
-enjoy a traditional Japanese dinner with live music.

 

2. Ueno: Parks – Museums – Markets

Right next to Asakusa lies Ueno: a similar historic district, but one with very different accents. This area is also part of the so-called Shitamachi (“lower city”): an older part of Tokyo with fewer high rises, where things feel a little more authentic. The most popular attraction is the vast Ueno Park near the busy train station. On weekends, it’s one of Tokyo’s busiest parks, where locals gather to relax or enjoy a stroll. Ueno Park houses several beautiful temples, and with the Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum of Nature & Science and the Metropolitan Art Museum, some of the country’s most important museums are here as well. Done with all of that? Finish with a surprisingly cheap visit to Ueno Zoo and see some giant pandas (but beware: some enclosures are quite outdated).

The liveliest part of Ueno is also near the station. Ameya Yokocho is a bustling and photogenic street market under and around the train tracks, originated from a black market where hard-to-get items were sold after WWII. After sunset, the whole neighbourhood comes alive and you can mingle with salary men getting smashed after work in one of the countless izakaya (tiny Japanese restaurants/bars). A fifteen-minute walk from Ueno Park is Nezu Shrine: one of Tokyo’s true hidden gems. In this quaint mini version of Kyoto’s famous Fushimi Inari, there’s often barely a soul in sight. Unlike in Kyoto, you can walk through the moody torii gates in peace.

Hotels in Ueno:

–Tomariya Ueno (budget): stylish, modern and cheap hostel close to Ueno Station.
–Sotetsu Fresa Inn Ueno-Okachimachi (midrange): cosy hotel next to Ueno park and a popular subway line.
–Nogha Hotel Ueno (high end): a stylish, modern venue right by Ueno Station, perfect for travellers who want easy access to the parks and museums.

Activities in Ueno:

-a food tour through Ameya Yokocho.
–another food tour specifically aimed at restaurants with no other tourists.
-a workshop where a Japanese chef teaches you how to make soba noodles.
-a pub crawl to various Ueno bars and izakaya.
-a workshop where you make traditional Japanese paper.

 

3. Yanaka: Nostalgia – Peaceful – Pre-war Tokyo

If you want to experience how much of a village feel a megacity can have, you should take a short walk from Ueno Park to Yanaka: one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods. It’s located in the north of Ueno, in one of the few parts of Tokyo that came out of WWII almost unscathed. As a result, much of the area retained its original layout and atmosphere, making for an even stronger nostalgic vibe. Today it’s a charming, slightly old-fashioned quarter. Expect cosy alleys, local shops, cafés and some small galleries.

Yanaka is a hub for artists and craftsmen, where you can book a few workshops yourself: a small oasis of peace and tranquillity in one of the world’s largest cities. The district is also known as “Cat Town”. This is because a surprising number of stray cats roam the streets, and are cared for by the local residents. Yanaka Ginza is the central axis, and several businesses on this shopping street offer cat-related pastries and souvenirs. You have the best chance of actually seeing the animals when you visit Yanaka Reien. This is a huge cemetery, where they often lie sunbathing on the tombstones as if guarding the graves. Even without spotting any cats, this place is worth a (respectful) visit, if only to see how the Japanese deal with death.

Hotels in Yanaka:

Accommodation in Yanaka is somewhat limited, which is part of its charm.
–Sakura Hotel Nippori (budget to midrange): colourful and cosy hotel close to Yanaka Ginza.

Activities in Yanaka: 

-extensive walking tour through Yanaka, often combined with nearby Nezu Shrine.

 

4. Akihabara: Anime – Maid Cafés – Gaming

After a few days of acclimatizing in yesteryear’s Tokyo, it’s time to shift gears and visit what’s possibly the wildest place in the entire city. Akihabara – one of Tokyo’s most infamous neighbourhoods – lies south of Ueno, and started out as the place to get the latest gadgets when Japan had its electronics boom. As a result, the area is still called Electric Town today.

The hi-fi and PC stores are still here, but over the years focus shifted towards gaming and eventually Otaku-culture (read: die-hard anime fans and self-proclaimed weebs). Today, Akiba is the global epicentre of all things anime, and the poster child for the excesses that make modern Japanese pop culture both extremely popular and somewhat alienating. Think rowdy billboards, anime shops the size of apartment buildings, dozens of arcades full of gachapon machines, and plenty of pretty girls dressed as French maids handing out flyers to lure you to one of the many maid cafés. Lovely place.

“Akihabara is the global epicentre of all things anime, and the poster child for the excesses that make modern Japanese pop culture both hugely popular and somewhat alienating”

You should definitely visit a maid café by the way, the experience is quite peculiar. No raunchy strip shows, but awkward and hilarious interactions, hyper-enthusiastic choreographed dances and the most kawaii rice omelette (“omuraisu”: see, you’re learning Japanese already) you’ll ever see. Check my older article for the details.

The main Electric Town boulevard is where the big chains opened their flagship stores, and every Sunday afternoon the whole place is pedestrianised. Don’t forget to dive into the backstreets as well. These are full of smaller shops and restaurants, and you’ll often find the best bargains here. If you’re a fan of the culture, you could wander through Electric Town for days without getting bored.

Some of the must-visit places in Akihabara include: Radio Kaikan (literally everything to do with anime and miniatures), Superpotato (fantastic store for retro games: unbelievable what they still have in stock), Mandarake (well-known chain that sells second-hand action figures, manga and games) and M’s (world’s largest sex shop – enter at your own risk).

Hotels in Akihabara:

–Cocts Akihabara (budget): hip and well-decorated hostel a short walk away from Electric Town. Offers private rooms as well as capsule-style dorm beds.
–Dormy Inn Akihabara (midrange): cosy hotel at a walking distance from both Electric Town and Ueno Park. There’s an onsen on the rooftop.
–Nogha Hotel Akihabara (high end): beautiful place just a couple of meters away from Akihabara’s main boulevard. Rooms are well-decorated and the hotel has its own restaurant and bar.

Activities in Akihabara:

–unique workshop where you deconstruct an old Nintendo Gameboy, pimp it to your liking with new parts and then take it back home with you (this is awesome).
-a tour through Electric Town (food included), led by a maid in full cosplay.
–another tour through the Electric Town shops, guided by a local and quite useful if you’re looking for specific items or collectibles.

 

5. Jinbōchō: Books – Intellectual Hub – Undiscovered

Jinbōchō, a lesser-known quarter in central Tokyo, was recently named the world’s coolest neighbourhood by Time Out Magazine. Whether or not that title really fits is up to you (note: the District of Borgerhout in my own Antwerp came in second), but since Jinbōchō is just a short subway ride from Akihabara, you can easily combine both on the same day.

The area is known for just one thing: the massive amount of second-hand books sold here. More than 200 bookshops are all next to each other, concentrated in a handful of streets. Many shops are literally crammed to the ceiling with old books, leaving the dusty little guy behind the counter as good as invisible. Entire cabinets are outside as well, which makes for photogenic scenes.

Most shops exclusively sell Japanese literature: everything from novels and manuscripts to crusty erotic magazines from the good old days. So unless you’ve been cramming your kanji for the last five years, these will be of little use to you (there’s probably some visual material in the erotic ones, though). A couple of businesses do offer an English assortment, so have a look anyway. Jinbōchō is a great and unexpected stop for book lovers, writers, and anyone who enjoys the quieter parts of town – and it comes with plenty of curry places as well.

Hotels in Jinbōchō:

Accommodation options in Jinbōchō are limited but often well-priced and central.
–Sakura Hotel Jinbōchō (budget): cosy hostel offering both normal and family rooms.
–Sotetsu Fresa Inn Ochanomizu Jinbōchō (midrange): standard but nice hotel with clean rooms and honest rates.

Activities in Jinbōchō:

-Outside of browsing bookstores, Jinbōchō itself is fairly quiet, but the Tokyo Dome (the city’s largest sports/concert venue) and the absolutely wonderful Koishikawa Kōrakuen Garden are nearby.

 

6. Marunouchi & Tokyo Station: Palaces – Business – Transport Hub

As mentioned earlier, Marunouchi and the area around Tokyo Station form the geographical heart of Tokyo. You’ll probably pass through the iconic Tokyo Station at some point – most Shinkansen bullet trains to the rest of the country depart from here – but its many underground shopping and food streets are an attraction in themselves.

There’s only one real tourist hotspot in the rest of the neighbourhood, but it’s one of the main ones. Behind thick walls opposite the station lies Japan’s Imperial Palace. It was built on the foundations of the old Edo Castle from which the Shogun ruled, but the current buildings mainly date from the sixties (Tokyo was bombed to cinders during WWII). You can visit the imperial domain twice a day on a guided tour, although you’re not allowed inside the buildings themselves. The Imperial Palace East Gardens however, are always free to visit (closed on Mondays and Fridays). This is a huge green area that, in a way, serves as Tokyo’s equivalent of Central Park. There are some very pleasant walks to be had here, and it comes with a museum showcasing the Imperial Collection.

The rest of Marunouchi is mainly a business district – one of the more important ones – and entertainment is limited to shopping and sipping overpriced lattes. KITTE (one of the newer malls) has an interesting (and free) museum on the upper floors. At Intermediatheque, Tokyo University exhibits pieces from its vast collection. From Egyptian mummies and Roman coins to stuffed animals and skeletons, it’s surprisingly eclectic. Not a bad option on rainy days.

Hotels in Marunouchi:

Hotels in Marunouchi are ideal if you want direct access to Tokyo Station and fast connections across the country.
–Hotel Metropolitan Tokyo Marunouchi (midrange – high end): stylish business hotel near Tokyo Station.
–The Tokyo Station Hotel (high end): wonderful classic venue in the actual historic train station.
–Shangri-La Tokyo (luxury): only for people with a huge wallet, but fantastic hotel next to the station, with a direct view into the Imperial Gardens.

Activities in Marunouchi:

–Guided tour through Tokyo Station and its underground malls, some great viewpoints, and eventually the Imperial Palace East Gardens.

 

7. Ginza: Luxury – Shopping – Design

Tokyo is often cited as one of the best cities in the world for luxury shopping, and Ginza is Japan’s most glamorous retail district. Right next to Marunouchi, you’ll find a succession of immaculate shopping malls filled with the world’s most prestigious brands. Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton: your poor wallet hasn’t been sleeping for weeks just thinking about them. All this splendour naturally attracts fancy people, and this is reflected in the other businesses in the area: upscale restaurants, hip cocktail bars, Kabuki theatres and the occasional art gallery. Ginza was built to spend money in, but visitors with a smaller purse can also have fun.

Chuo-dori is the main boulevard. Every weekend it’s closed to all traffic, giving pedestrians free rein while street artists do their thing – creating a surprisingly relaxed, festival-like atmosphere. Ginza Crossing (the intersection of Chuo-dori and Harumi-dori) is the slightly smaller version of the famous Shibuya scramble crossing, providing similarly chaotic – if slightly more refined – scenes. Near the intersection is Ginza Six: an architecturally sublime mall, and one of the best examples of contemporary retail design in Tokyo. Tsutaya Books is on one of the upper floors – possibly the most beautiful bookstore I’ve had the pleasure of visiting.

Don’t feel like eating in a high-end restaurant and looking for something completely different? Book a table at the Ginza Vampire Café. It’s on the seventh floor of an apartment building and feels like you were just invited to Dracula’s for coffee. The staff is hilarious and completely absorbed in their roles, and your steak (bloody, of course) is nailed to a cross and then set on fire. Very metal.

Hotels in Ginza:

–lyf Ginza Tokyo (budget): colourful and playfully decorated hotel with surprisingly cheap rooms (for Ginza).
–Muji Hotel Ginza (high end): stylish venue with a clean design (lots of wood). Quiet, minimalist retreat – a nice contrast with the hectic shopping boulevards outside.
–Hotel Grandbach Tokyo Ginza (high end): larger and more classic hotel, with spacious, well decorated rooms. Just a minute away from a subway station on the popular Ginza line.
–The Peninsula Tokyo (luxury): only for those planning to empty every fashion store in Ginza. Costs a fortune, but if you can afford it why wouldn’t you?

 

8. Tsukiji: Streetfood – Markets – Food Culture

Tsukiji borders Ginza, but is a neighbourhood with a completely different vibe. It’s a bit more chaotic, everything feels just a little older and it’s a lot less posh in general. Instead of slick sushi restaurants, you’ll eat your fish standing at a street market or sitting shoulder to shoulder in a tiny izakaya.

The Tsukiji Outer Market is by far the main attraction here. This used to be the largest fresh fish market in the world, where tourists gathered early in the morning to watch the spectacular tuna auction. The auction was moved to Toyosu in 2018 (about four kilometres away), mainly due to lack of space and modernisation needs. The rest of the market is still there though, and its busy little alleys and stalls are one of the most visited tourist hotspots in Tokyo. Great place to explore, but be careful with what you buy. Because there are so many tourists hanging around, the prices are often a lot higher than at other markets.

Also worth a visit are the Hama Rikyu Gardens and the strange Hongan-ji Temple, which has quite a lot of Indian influences in its design. This is the place were Hideto “Hide” Matsumoto’s funeral took place in 1998. Hide was the hugely popular lead guitarist of X Japan (think Guns ‘N Roses but with even crazier hair) who committed suicide at a young age and under suspicious circumstances. Fifty thousand people gathered for his send-off, crying on the street, and in some cases throwing themselves in front of the hearse. One young fan even attempted to harm herself out of sheer grief, but fortunately survived. In the temple, almost thirty years later, there’s still a table set up for fans to leave their memorabilia.

Hotels in Tsukiji:

Hotels in Tsukiji are a good compromise if you want to stay close to both Ginza and the market area.
–Hotel Vista Tokyo Tsukiji (budget to midrange): surprisingly cheap but very decent hotel, close to Tsukiji Market.
–TSUKI Tokyo (midrange): minimalistic boutique hotel close to both Tsukiji Outer Market and Chuo-Dori in Ginza.

Activities in Tsukiji:

-a guided food tour through Tsukiji Outer Market.
-have a local chef teach you how to make sushi.
-a neighbourhood tour of Tsukiji (not only the market) by local university students.
-an unlimited sake tasting experience with sixty different flavours (take care of yourself).

 

9. Odaiba: Island – Beach – Entertainment

Odaiba is a manmade island in Tokyo Bay, and a visit feels like a short holiday from the rest of Tokyo. It was originally created by the Tokugawa shogunate in the mid-19th century, together with five similar islands, to protect the city against possible sea invasions. By the end of WWII, it had become clear that coastal fortresses are of little use when the enemy can just leisurely fly its firebombs right over them. The islands were abandoned soon after.

Ideas for a new purpose were thrown around for years, but it took until the nineties for the Odaiba masterplan to be ready. The island would become home to the Tokyo of the future: high-tech, green and liveable. A model city was to be built here, offering a healthy combination of living space, work and leisure. In 1993 the iconic Rainbow Bridge was finished, connecting the island to the mainland. Unfortunately the rest of the plan came to somewhat of a halt when the Japanese stock market crashed and the economy began its long stagnation. The model city was never truly completed, and not that many people live here even today.

“A visit to Odaiba feels like a short holiday from the rest of Tokyo.”

Odaiba did become a popular destination after all, but mainly for entertainment and events. It’s full of huge shopping malls, and in 2021 it even hosted a number of Olympic disciplines. It’s also where you’ll find the only sandy beach in Tokyo easily accessible to visitors, looking out on the skyline on the other side of the bay.

Odaiba’s other attractions are way stranger. The Unicorn Gundam, for example, is a sixty foot robot in front of the DiverCity Mall. Every few hours it transforms into battle mode, which makes for quite a show (think heroic theme song and lots of flashing lights). In the same mall, you’ll find the Unko Museum. This is a very Insta-worthy “museum” all about poop and why your feces are actually kawaii.

The Fuji Television Building, overlooking the nearby beach, is one of Tokyo’s most unique buildings, and a prime example of what people in the early nineties thought the architecture of the future would look like. Also on Odaiba: a completely unexpected copy of the Statue of Liberty, donated to Japan by the French. Guess they had another one lying around somewhere.

Seen everything on this island? Hop to the next one and visit teamLab Planets in nearby Toyosu: an immensely popular and visually impressive multimedia attraction.

Hotels in Odaiba:

I personally wouldn’t stay on Odaiba for a first visit to Tokyo. The rest of the city is too far away to serve as a convenient homebase. There are plenty of good hotels to choose from however.
–Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba (midrange to high end): beach resort with a panoramic view of Tokyo Bay, close to DiverCity.
–La Vista Tokyo Bay (midrange): another beach resort, not on Odaiba, but on a nearby island next to the Toyosu Fish Market (where they hold the tuna auction now).

Activities in Odaiba:

-a cruise in Tokyo Bay on a traditional houseboat (food and dancers included).
-tickets for teamLab Planets.

 

10. Roppongi: International – Nightlife – Art

Roppongi is an upscale neighbourhood in central Tokyo, just south of the Imperial Palace. After WWII, most American soldiers were stationed here. Ever since, the district continued attracting expats, making it one of the most international areas in the capital today. You’ll hear more English than usual in restaurants, and several businesses explicitly cater to expats. Even the nightlife is surprisingly cosmopolitan – plenty of pub crawls for tourists are organised here.

The entire district was thoroughly overhauled around the turn of the century. This resulted in several newer hotels and malls, mainly concentrated around two huge real estate projects: Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. Near those two, you’ll also find two of Japan’s most prestigious modern art museums: The National Art Center and the Mori Art Museum.

The biggest attraction in the area (technically just outside Roppongi) is the Tokyo Tower. This is the orange version of the Eiffel Tower, thirteen meters taller than the Paris original. You can climb it for a nice view, but since the actual tower is one of the most iconic buildings in the skyline, Tokyo City View on top of the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills is a better alternative. Here you’ll have a direct view on Tokyo Tower, and on clear days you can even see Mount Fuji in the far distance. Best observation deck in Tokyo as far as I’m concerned.

Hotels in Roppongi:

Roppongi has a good mix of business hotels and high-end options, especially around the major redevelopment areas.
–Sotetsu Fresa Inn Tokyo Roppongi (budget to midrange): decent business hotel right next to Roppongi Station.
–Hotel Minato (high end): fantastic hotel close to the National Art Center. Beautiful rooms and a huge spa. Obviously a bit more expensive.
–Grand Hyatt Tokyo (luxury): huge luxury hotel in Roppongi Hills. Everything you’d expect from a Hyatt, in a great location (but at a steep price).

Activities in Roppongi:

-a popular pub crawl in Roppongi.
-a guided tour to teamLab Borderless (there are two teamLabs in Tokyo), Roppongi Hills and the National Art Center.

 

11. Harajuku: Youth Culture – Kawaii – Creativity

Harajuku is another one of Tokyo’s more eccentric neighbourhoods. Located in the north of Shibuya (coming up shortly) it was the breeding ground for everything to do with Japanese counterculture and niche fashion for years. Harajuku is where kawaii style originated, and where just about everyone does their utmost to look either as cute or as badass as possible.

Takeshita Street was once the place to be to spot random people in full cosplay, but in recent years it became so popular it’s now more of a super busy tourist trap. The clothing stores seem to only cater for either carnival or the latest Tim Burton movie, every few metres you’ll come across some dodgy animal café and the street food literally comes in all the colours of the rainbow. Interesting to walk through, but if you want to see what’s left of the real Harajuku, it’s better to explore the side streets instead. Cat Street for example, is much quieter and still has shops where the actual alternative kids buy their stuff.

“For years, Harajuku was the breeding ground of Japanese counterculture and niche fashion.”

Nearby Yoyogi Park is another great place for people spotting – mainly because contrary to Takeshita Street, it’s full of locals instead of tourists. Walk to the big clock near the entrance on a Sunday afternoon, and you can attend the weekly performance of The Strangers: an absolute joy. This is a group of Rockabillies dressed in leather and with quiffs that would make even Elvis blush, who’ve been dancing here for almost forty years. Some are well over seventy, but still give it a go every Sunday – truly admirable.

Right next to the park is the city’s most visited religious site after Sensoji. Meiji Shrine is dedicated to Shintoism, Japan’s original religion before Buddhism arrived on the island. It was built in the early 20^th century to honour Emperor Meiji and his wife. You enter through a huge wooden torii gate, the domain is lush and well-kept and the number of wedding/kid shoots in traditional outfits taking place here on weekends is quite impressive.

Hotels in Harajuku:

Harajuku is part of Shibuya, so the hotels overlap. Most sights in these two neighbourhoods are within walking distance of each other.
–The Millennials Shibuya (budget): very highly rated hostel in between Shibuya Station and Yoyogi Park (perfect location to explore both neighbourhoods). Offers capsule style dorm rooms.
–lyf Shibuya Tokyo (midrange): hip and modern hotel, close to both Yoyogi Park and Shibuya Station.
–Trunk Hotel Cat Street (high end): trendy boutique hotel right next to Cat Street.

Activities in Harajuku:

-a Kawaii Fashion & Pop Culture tour in a small group.
-a tour to Meiji Shrine teaching you all about Shintoism.
-a hidden gems tour in Harajuku and Shibuya.

 

12. Shibuya: Urban Energy – Nightlife – Fashion

For many people, Shibuya is one of the few Tokyo neighbourhoods whose name immediately rings a bell. This of course, thanks to the countless images of Shibuya Scramble Crossing we’ve all seen on the internet. It’s the world’s most famous pedestrian crossing, and it helps half a country worth of commuters cross the street on a daily basis. Pretty impressive in real life, but also surprisingly small compared to the wide angle shots you usually see.

There’s much more to Shibuya than crossing the intersection. It’s one of the city’s main shopping and party areas, and together with Shinjuku and maybe Electric Town, this is the image you have in your head when you think of hectic urban Tokyo. Harajuku might be the place for eccentrics and niche subcultures, but Shibuya is where the actual big fashion trends usually originate. Fast fashion, loud billboards and a healthy dose of chaos – that about covers it.

“Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s main party hubs and the place where major fashion trends often originate.”

Shibuya 109 rises up right behind the crossing and is probably Japan’s most iconic mall. It opened in 1979 and immediately started selling trendy outfits for young women. Many of the country’s top designers got their first push here, and it didn’t take long for Shibuya 109 to start determining what was hip and what was not. Even the (absolutely atrocious) gyaru culture blew up here in the late nineties, when the place got swarmed by bleached Barbies wearing orange spray-tan and long pink nails – fortunately this craze is now a thing of the past.

Behind Shibuya 109 lies Dōgenzaka: one of the liveliest and most photogenic nightlife areas in Tokyo. Once a residential district, now a bustling anthill full of winding alleys, bars, izakaya and clubs. Dōgenzaka is also called Love Hotel Hill, because it has plenty of places where you pay by the hour. This is completely normal in Japan and quite understandable as well. If you were in your thirties, still living with your parents in a small apartment with paper-thin walls, you’d like to have some occasional and uninterrupted “privacy” as well.

Hotels in Shibuya:

Shibuya is one of the best areas to stay if you want nightlife and shopping right outside your door.
–The Millennials (budget): hip and adults-only capsule hotel in between Shibuya Crossing and Yoyogi Park.
–Hotel Indigo Tokyo Shibuya by IHG (high end): modern hotel with a wonderful rooftop terrace, right in Dōgenzaka.
–Shibuya Stream Hotel (high end): another great hotel in central Shibuya.

Activities in Shibuya:

-a four-hour long night tour through Shibuya and Shinjuku.
-a private tour through Shibuya and a bunch of other Tokyo highlights in a pimped-up race car from Tokyo Drift.
-a workshop where you learn how to draw manga comics led by a pro.
-a great pub crawl to several local bars and izakaya.

 

13. Shimokitazawa: Vintage – Bohemian – Relaxed

Take a six minute subway ride from Shibuya and you’ll find yourself in Shimokitazawa: a neighbourhood almost the polar opposite of the one you just left. Shimokita (that’s what cool cats like me call the place) is a relaxed enclave that’s been attracting musicians, artists and other creative minds for years. This makes it one of the most alternative spots in Tokyo, be it much less in your face than Harajuku’s relentless kawaii bombardment.

What Shimokitazawa is best known for are its many second-hand and vintage clothing stores, making it one of Tokyo’s best neighbourhoods for thrift and retro fashion. Most people frequenting the area are in their late twenties or early thirties, and they’ll hang out in record stores, low key (but quality) restaurants, hipster coffee bars or live music joints. This is a neighbourhood on a human scale: not too many high-rises and full of atmospheric alleys to explore.

Flamingo is one of the most famous vintage stores (they have two businesses here) and sells mainly American retro stuff. New York’s Joe Exchange is a similar place. Stick Out is a store for second-hand clothes and accessories where everything costs exactly 800 yen. 2nd Street is an outlet offering second-hand designer clothes for relatively reasonable prices.

If you need a break from browsing clothes, Shimokita’s most unique attraction is actually just outside it. Gotoku-ji is a beautiful temple in an almost incredibly quiet, residential area. Not that bafflingly special at first sight, were it not for the fact that it’s the “birthplace” of Maneki-neko: the beckoning cat figurine you’ll spot all over Japan. Legend has it that a nobleman was once led in here by a stray cat, moments before lightning struck the spot he was just standing in. In gratitude, he donated large sums of money to the temple (and hopefully some food to the cat). As a result, countless statuettes are left behind by visitors every year. There are thousands of them next to each other in long rows: great Instagram spot.

Hotels in Shimokitazawa:

–Mustard Hotel Shimokitazawa (midrange to high end): hip, minimalistic hotel close to a whole bunch of bars and restaurants.
–Onsen Ryokan Yuen Bettei Tokyo Daita (high end): beautiful, traditional onsen hotel.

Activities in Shimokitazawa:

-a vintage shopping tour in Shimokitazawa.
-a pub crawl with drinks and snacks.
–a different walking tour combining vintage shopping with music and bars.

 

14. Shinjuku: Nightlife – Skyscrapers – Chaos

Shinjuku looks like what most people who’ve never been to Japan imagine all of Tokyo to be: glass skyscrapers plastered with flashy neon, and under them a maze of dingy streets filled with bars, clubs and izakaya. Shinjuku is one of Tokyo’s major hubs, and Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest, but for most visitors it’s a pure entertainment district.

Kabukicho is close to the station and the largest entertainment district (as well as the biggest red light district) in Japan. Visually, Godzilla Street is most impressive, covered in neon and with the life-sized head of Japan’s favourite monster looming over the local movie theatre, but it’s in the smaller streets surrounding it where the neighbourhood really comes to life. These are filled to the brim with bars and other entertainment (please don’t visit any hostess bars if you value your money). More than a thousand pubs, clubs and restaurants are waiting for you in Kabukicho.

“Shinjuku looks like what most people who’ve never been to Japan imagine all of Tokyo to be.”

Unfortunately, the area is also one of the few places in Tokyo where you actually have to pay some attention at night. Never talk to the touts who want to take you to their “favourite bar”. You’ll be outside again a few hours later, with a plundered credit card and possibly even drugged. Take this warning into accont, stick to businesses with visible menus, good reviews and other customers inside, and you’ll be absolutely fine.

There are plenty of great places to choose from in Shinjuku. Golden Gai is the most iconic: a network of narrow alleys where more than 200 tiny bars with different themes are all next to each other: very photogenic and the perfect area for a pub crawl. An alternative with more food than drinks is Omoide Yokocho (or “Piss Alley”, but it’s pretty clean these days). This is another network of narrow alleyways, but these are chock-full of izakaya and yakitori. You’ll sit shoulder to shoulder at the bar and order all kinds of fish and meat on a stick straight from the grill. Perfect for solo travellers, as you’re almost forced to be social. For calmer daytime activities, Shinjuku Gyoen and the free observation decks at the Metropolitan Government Building are good options.

Hotels in Shinjuku:

–Premier Hotel Cabin Shinjuku (budget): popular budget hotel in Kabukicho, with much better reviews than a bunch of even cheaper alternatives.
–Hotel Gracery Shinjuku (high end): large hotel in the heart of Kabukicho. Godzilla’s gigantic head is literally on the rooftop terrace.
–Sakura Cross Hotel Shinjuku East (high end, sometimes midrange): smaller hotel, outside of the busiest part of Shinjuku, but close to a popular subway station.

Activities in Shinjuku:

-a pub/izakaya crawl taking you to Kabukicho, Golden Gai and Omoido Yokocho.
-a nighttime photography course.
-a food tour with 13 different dishes.
-a “dark history” tour (crime! murder!) through Kabukicho.

 

15. Nakano: Otaku – Collectibles – Local

Big anime fan, but looking for a less overwhelming alternative to Akihabara? Nakano, in western Tokyo, offers the kind of otaku culture Akihabara had before it went completely over the top. Here you’ll find the same anime subculture, but much more relaxed and in a network of old alleys where power cables cover the streets like vines.

Centre of the action is Nakano Broadway. This is a somewhat old-fashioned shopping mall, where the upper floors have been dominated by otaku shops since the early eighties (twenty years before Akihabara). The stores here are generally a bit smaller and more focused on selling second-hand items and rare editions (there’s a large Mandarake branch here too, for example). On the ground floor you’ll mainly find “normal” stores, but there are a few unique discoveries to be made here as well. A vending machine for edible insects for example, and Daily Chico offers the largest ice cream cones you’ll ever see.

The alleys surrounding the mall are worth a visit as well. A cosy maze crammed with standing bars and tiny yakitori or ramen spots. Nakano is a very livable, mostly residential side of Tokyo, which makes for an interesting contrast with nearby Shinjuku.

Tip: just a few stops west of Nakano lies Koenji. This is another fun bohemian neighbourhood known for its live music venues, vintage shops and quirky cafés. Think laid-back, residential and usually not that crowded.

Hotels in Nakano:

Nakano Station is a major hub on the JR Chūō Line, with direct trains to Shinjuku in under 10 minutes. This said, it’s a little far from the east side of town (places like Asakusa/Akihabara) so first-time visitors might want to stay more centrally.
–Court Residence Tokyo Nakano (midrange): offers full apartments for an honest price. Right in the middle of Nakano and perfect for those looking for a long term stay.
–Illi Esu Nakano (high end): more apartments in Nakano. These are a bit more luxurious.

 

16. Ikebukuro: Shopping – Entertainment – Summary District

Ikebukuro (together with Shibuya and Shinjuku) was one of three major districts marked to become Tokyo’s central hubs of the future, and it has quietely become one of the city’s busiest, though somewhat underrated areas throughout the years. I saved Ikebukuro for the end of this guide, because it doesn’t neatly fit into one specific category – it’s a cross-section of Tokyo, offering a bit of everything you’ve already seen.

If you based your Tokyo trip around my guide, you should have experienced just about every facet of the city by now. Ikebukuro offers big shopping malls, anime stores, lively party streets and great food. It’s all there and it should feel very familiar to you now. This makes it a great place for a walk on your last day, to reflect on your trip a bit. It will help you realise Tokyo is more than just a collection of tourist hotspots. It’s a real city where people live and work, with countless interesting, bustling places most travellers have never even heard of.

Want to do more than just walking? For another one of the nicest vistas in Tokyo, head up to Sunshine 60 Observatory in Sunshine City. Its stylised sky garden is a relatively quiet spot to take in a last view of the city. Female anime fans should also head to Otome Road, where several businesses focus on female-oriented manga, collectibles, and otaku culture – think handsome male figurines and Butler Cafés: an alternative to Akihabara’s Maid Cafés. Looking for a last dash of nightlife? The area around Ikebukuro Station’s east exit offers a wide array of izakaya, ramen joints and bars.

Hotels in Ikebukuro:

–Super Hotel Premier Ikebukuro (budget to midrange): surprisingly affordable, with a natural hot spring and onsen right on site.
–Mimaru Tokyo Ikebukuro (upper midrange): stylish loft-style accommodations for groups or families, centrally located near Sunshine City.

 

17. The best day trips from Tokyo

There are many great day trips you can book from Tokyo. Apart from Yokohama, most major cities are too far away for a single-day trip and deserve more time. These five spots can easily be done in (half) a day:

Kamakura:

Just an hour from the city centre, Kamakura is the classic “let’s visit historic Japan” day trip from Tokyo. It was the country’s first feudal capital, and you can visit more than eighty temples and shrines here, spread out over some gorgeous wooded hills. Kamakura’s 11-meter tall Great Buddha is a must-see photo spot. For active travelers, hiking the Daibutsu Trail is a peaceful way to discover the hidden temples on the hillsides. Here’s a fully customisable day trip from Kamakura to Tokyo.

Nikko:

Only two hours north of Tokyo, Nikko is another beautiful town hidden in the forest (go in autumn for the most spectacular foliage). The main attraction is Tōshō-gū Shrine, recognized as UNESCO World Heritage. If you want to explore efficiently, a guided tour is highly recommended to make the most of your short visit. Here’s an organised full day trip from Tokyo to Nikko.

Yokohama:

Yokohama is Japan’s second largest city, but is actually part of the same metropolitan area as Tokyo. It’s a huge port city, a great food destination and home to the largest Chinatown in the country. The waterfront area near Minato Mirai offers a lovely mix of futuristic architecture, ferris wheel views, and upscale shopping.

Hakone:

Hakone is one of the most popular places to go and see Mount Fuji. It’s spread out around a picturesque crater lake and has been a wellness destination for hundreds of years. Don’t miss riding the Hakone Ropeway or taking a scenic cruise on Lake Ashi. Traditional ryokans and onsen resorts make this the perfect escape from hectic Tokyo.

Kawaguchiko (Fuji Five Lakes):

For breathtaking views of Mount Fuji, the Fuji Five Lakes region can’t be beaten. Kawaguchiko, the most accessible of the lakes, offers countless walking and cycling routes. The Churei-to Pagoda provides one of Japan’s most iconic postcard views, with Fujisan in the background. Expect a short line for the perfect shot. Here’s a full day Fuji Five Lakes day trip from Tokyo (Hakone included).

 

Practical tips for a trip to Tokyo and Japan

Whether this is your first time in Japan or you’ve been here so many times you’re basically doing side-quests by now, a little preparation goes a long way. These tips will make your Tokyo trip run smoothly.

Stay connected with a local eSIM:

Buy a local eSIM card before you get to Japan. I’ve been using Airalo eSIMs for years. Airalo is an app that lets you buy data in almost every country on the planet. Install the sim at home and activate it after landing: that’s it. You really need mobile data in Tokyo, so you can use Google Maps to navigate through the city and its subway system.

Buy a Suica-card for easy subway access and small purchases:

You’ll need a Suica Card to use public transport smoothly. You can buy one in any station, and top it up with cash through the machines. It works in every Japanese city and can even be used as an electronic wallet. While most major stores do accept credit cards, Japan is surprisingly cash based. If you don’t have a Suica Card, you’ll be carrying around a pound worth of useless coins after two days.

Consider a Japan Rail Pass when travelling between multiple cities:

If you plan to visit a bunch of cities with the Shinkansen bullet train, it’s best to buy a Japan Rail Pass. You’ll have to do this from home and long before your departure, because they’ll actually send it by mail and you apparently can’t buy one in Japan. If you’re only visiting three or four cities like I did, it might be better to buy separate tickets on the spot – you’ll have to do the math to see which option is preferable.

Visa information:

EU citizens don’t need a visa to enter Japan for trips of up to ninety days. Same goes for most of North America, Oceania and parts of Asia, Latin America and the Middle East. Be sure to thoroughly check before you get on a plane.

Further reading:

If you’re looking for a tailor-made multi week trip to several cities and destinations, check out Japan Experience. They offer a whole array of wonderful itineraries.

Looking for other trips in Asia-Pacific? I have city guides on Seoul, Kanazawa, Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore and Hanoi.