Ticino is Switzerland’s southernmost canton as well as its most surprising one. Bordering Italy and set along the palm-lined shores of Lago Maggiore, this Italian-speaking region combines Swiss efficiency with Mediterranean flair. Think colourful piazzas, alpine valleys, subtropical gardens and lakeside towns where espresso replaces fondue. In this guide, you’ll discover the most beautiful places to visit in Ticino, from Ascona and Locarno to hidden mountain valleys and island gardens – plus some practical tips to plan the perfect trip to Italian Switzerland.
Booking a trip to Switzerland often comes with some very specific images in mind: long days of swooshing down the ski slopes for example, and lots of cheese fondue to refuel in preparation for the après-ski. If you visit in summer, you’ll swap your skis for hiking boots and trek through green Alpine meadows full of cows with jingly jangly bells around their necks. Both are wonderful holidays, but they don’t always reflect the full picture. In the far south of Switzerland, there’s one canton where things are more than a tad different.
In Ticino – Switzerland’s only Italian speaking canton – you can still enjoy the Alps in all their splendour, but you’ll feel like you’re in an entirely different country. On the shores of stunning Lago Maggiore, log cabins and pine forests are replaced by sunny boulevards, Venetian facades and palm trees. In terms of language, architecture, gastronomy and the frequent use of vigorous hand gestures, you feel like you’re in Italy, though that country lies safely across the water. No worries though: they love la bella vita just as much on this side of the border. Be it just a tad more orderly – they’re still Swiss, after all.
Why visit Ticino, Switzerland?
Ticino is considered the gateway to the South by the Swiss, and they aren’t just saying this – Milan is only an hour’s drive from Lugano. The southern atmosphere however, is noticable well before you reach the border. You can sunbathe on white sandy beaches, shop in designer boutiques or drink espresso on a colourful piazza. If you fancy a decent pasta, you don’t have to cross the border for one either – they make them just as tasty here. On top of that, the region has a mild climate and enjoys more sunshine than most of the country, making it an ideal destination from spring through autumn.
Yet the mountains are never far away. Just a few kilometres from the Mediterranean towns lie valleys full of deep gorges, roaring waterfalls and centuries-old stone villages. If you book a trip in winter, you can go skiing on the slopes in the morning to then enjoy a glass of rosé on a sunny terrace by the water later. It’s the combination of Swiss comfort and efficiency with the relaxed lifestyle and charm of northern Italy that makes Ticino such a unique destination.
Best things to do in Ticino & Lago Maggiore
It’s impossible to see everything Ticino has to offer on a single trip. The canton is larger and more diverse than you’d think at first glance, and places like Lugano – with its elegant lakefront, museums and lively atmosphere – deserve a visit of their own. With limited time, I focused on the western side of Lago Maggiore and the surrounding valleys. The spots below are not a complete overview of Ticino, but rather the places I actually visited – and the ones that left the best impression.
1. Ascona: art, music & a lakeside promenade
Ascona is a small but beautiful town, known as a popular holiday destination for many years. The promenade along the water, full of pastel-coloured facades, cafés and palm trees, is a sight to behold, but there’s more to see. The centre is a maze of cobblestone streets filled with boutiques and artisanal shops, where you can make a few interesting stops. The San Pietro e Paolo church for example, is covered in beautiful frescoes and worth a visit.
The art and music scene is surprisingly diverse for a town of this size as well. In the early twentieth century, a group of pre-flower-power hippies gathered on the Monte Verità – the “Mountain of Truth”, but actually just a hill above the town – to establish a community based on principles like vegetarianism and (of course, because why not) nudism. This attracted many artists and intellectuals who subsequently kept hanging around for their love of the fine arts (read: boobs).
Today, you won’t find any more hippies on Monte Verità, but there’s still a museum and a pretty garden. The art and music have never left Ascona though. Every year near the end of June, JazzAscona takes place on the shores of the lake. Musicians from far and away perform all over town for several days, while New Orleans-style brass bands parade through the streets.
2. Locarno: film festivals & historic squares
*Left picture by the lovely Mirjam Hart of Een Goede Reis
Locarno lies right next to Ascona across the Maggia River and is similar in many ways, though slightly larger. It’s considered the sunniest destination in Switzerland and has a pleasant promenade along the water just like its neighbour. Two attractions stand out. Sacro Monte Madonna del Sasso is a pilgrimage site overlooking the town from a hill. You can reach it by a steep climb or by using the funicular from the town centre. The Piazza Grande is a beautiful square full of bars and restaurants where the Locarno Film Festival – one of the oldest in the world – has been held since 1946.
The strangest place in Locarno in my opinion, is the Chiesa Nuova. This is a lovely church that wouldn’t be very remarkable if it didn’t showcase a truly unique relic. Instead of the usual finger bones or some holy tooth, they have a complete and fully mummified saint on display behind glass here. Saint Germanus – I have no idea what miracles the man performed – looks like one of those dried up zombies in ancient armour from Skyrim, and grins his ghastly smile at the churchgoers throughout every sermon. Perfect tool to keep the kids quiet. “Pay attention, or Saint Germanus will drag you to the catacombs forever.”
3. Isole di Brissago: botanical gardens on Lago Maggiore
While both Ascona and Locarno are lovely destinations for a pleasant holiday, the biggest attractions in the area are a bit further afield. Isole di Brissago for example, is an island – actually, there are two, but one is off-limits – in the middle of Lago Maggiore, accessible via a short boat trip from Ascona.
Once you arrive, you’ll be able to walk through a fantastic botanical garden with over 1,500 mainly subtropical plant species. This garden was established in the 19th century by Baroness Antoinette Saint-Léger. Many of the trees she planted here are still standing today. Unfortunately, Antoinette was better at planting trees than at investing wisely. She went bankrupt and eventually had to sell the entire property to German magnate Max Emden. He built a huge villa on his newfound paradise – which the baroness could still see from her new poor people apartment on the lake shore – to host Hugh Hefner -style playboy parties in.
When he eventually died (most likely with a smile on his face) the gardens came into the possession of the canton, after which they were turned into a popular tourist attraction – and rightly so: the place is gorgeous. Although it can get busy in peak season, you’ll always find beautiful, peacefull spots and even areas for swimming to enjoy. Ideal place for an afternoon outin, and open from March to September.
4. Val Bavona: one of Switzerland’s most dramatic valleys
A half-hour drive from Locarno lies Val Bavona: one of the rockiest and most inhospitable valleys in the Swiss Alps. This makes for fantastic views, but it also meant an extremely harsh life for those brave enough to settle here in the past. Less than two percent of the area is suitable for agriculture, so shepards had to drive their flocks high up into the mountains to find enough grass.
Today, the valley is no longer permanently inhabited. The villages you encounter mainly consist of renovated summer houses owned by people who live by the lake the rest of the year – there’s no electricity. In winter, no one lives here because the snow makes the valley inaccessible. Yet these villages are of historical importance, mainly due to the numerous Splüi they’ve constructed here throughout the ages. Spluï are homes and storage places built or dug under overhanging cliffs or fallen rocks. You can find more than 1,500 of these structures all over the valley; the Splüia Bèla probably being the most spectacular.
In summer, Val Bavona is a fantastic place to explore, offering many photogenic views. Foroglio for example, looks like a fairy-tale village and is located at the foot of a more than 100-meter-high waterfall crashing down the rocks. A swing was installed in the pool below it – Instagrammers know where to go. Other beautiful town are Sonlerto, Rodeto and Sabbione. The latter almost looks like a hobbit village.
Thanks to Swiss efficiency, you can get to all of them by bus by the way. According to Swiss law, every even slightly inhabited hamlet in Switzerland must be accessible by public transport. How long you’ll have to wait for a bus driving you back to civilisation, is of course a different story.
5. Terreni alla Maggia: wine tasting in Ticino
Given that Italy is literally across the lake, you would expect to find some good wine in Ticino as well. And praise the lord: this is the case. Terreni alla Maggia in Ascona is the ideal place to have a taste. This is a 150-hectare estate where many other crops are grown besides wine. The northernmost rice in Europe is cultivated here for example, mainly used for risotto (there’s the Italian link again).
The twelve hectares of vineyards grow a wide variety of grapes. This results in a diverse range of white, red, and rosé wines. You can taste them all here, accompanied by some local snacks. The Merlot they produce ages for three years in French oak barrels. Afterwards, these barrels are used to store single malt. Yes, they produce Swiss whisky and gin as well. Both are quite enjoyable and are sold in bottles that would look very nice on your booze shelf at home.
Practical Travel Tips for Ticino
**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting activities or hotels in this particular section. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a tour or hotel in Liège, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**
Ticino is an easy destination to travel around, whether you’re visiting for a long weekend or adding it to a larger Switzerland itinerary. A bit of planning goes a long way though – especially when it comes to timing, transport and accommodation.
Where to stay in Ticino?
There are plenty of great hotels in both Locarno and Ascona. Here are a couple of good ones you can check out through the links. If you’re looking for a more cosmopolitan feel, you might want to stay in nearby Lugano (but I’ve not been there myself).
-I stayed at Hotel Belvedere Locarno: a large, classic hotel with a great restaurant and spacious rooms with balconies, overlooking Locarno and Lago Maggiore.
–Hotel la Meridiana, Lake & SPA: wonderful hotel on the Ascona promenade, offering balcony rooms that look out directly on the lake. Comes with a large welness area and an indoor pool.
–Vista Lakefront Boutique Hotel: another beautiful hotel on the same promenade, with romantic rooms and the same kind of balconies looking out on the lake. Rates are usually very acceptable for Switzerland.
–Hotel Millennium: small but charming lakeview hotel in Locarno, with excellent breakfast and very welcoming service. Also in the lower price range (for Switzerland).
–Hotel Remorino: gorgeous boutique hotel in Locarno. Not directly on the promenade, but in town and with an almost tropical looking pool.
Best Time to Visit Ticino
The best time to visit Ticino (when you’re not here for skiing of course) is probably from April to October, when the weather is mild to warm and the region’s Mediterranean character really comes alive. Spring comes with blooming gardens and fewer crowds, while summer is ideal for swimming in Lago Maggiore, hiking in the valleys and enjoying long evenings on lakeside terraces.
July and August are the warmest and busiest months, but they’re also when festivals like JazzAscona take place. Early autumn is another excellent option, with pleasant temperatures, grape harvests and fewer tourists. Winter is quieter and less suitable for sightseeing around the lake, though nearby ski areas remain accessible.
How to Get to Ticino
Ticino is well connected by public transport and surprisingly easy to reach.
-By train: Switzerland’s efficient rail network makes travelling to Ticino straightforward. Thanks to the Gotthard Base Tunnel, cities like Zurich and Lucerne are now significantly closer. Locarno, Ascona and Lugano are all easily reachable by train. If you’re planning to travel through Switzerland, getting a Swiss Travel Pass is probably a good idea. It allows you to take all public transport for free, and comes with free entry to over 500 museums and attractions. Book one here.
-From Italy: Milan is just over an hour away by car or train, making Ticino a popular cross-border destination.
-By car: Driving gives you more flexibility, especially for visiting mountain valleys like Val Bavona, though parking in lakeside towns can be limited in high season.
Getting Around Ticino (Ticino Ticket)
If you stay overnight in Ticino, you’ll receive a Ticino Ticket upon arrival at your hotel, campsite or youth hostel. This ticket allows you to use all public transport in the canton for free and gives discounts on many attractions.
Tours & Activities in Ticino
There are plenty of bookable tours and activities in Ticino, including lots of boat tours and day trips from Milan and other Italian cities. Check out GetYourGuide for a complete overview.
Further reading
Switzerland is not part of the EU, so you’ll need some local mobile data to avoid roaming charges. I’ve been using Airalo e-sims for years. They offer cheap and easy data in almost every country on the planet. Install the sim at home and activate it after landing: that’s it.
For more information about Switzerland as a tourist destination, click here.
For everything else you need to know about Ticino, click here.
I’d like to mention Daphne and her blog Road to Wander, who together with Mirjam was a very enthusiastic model for my waterfall pics.
If you want to go to Switzerland in winter but can’t ski, get inspired by my article about Interlaken. For some other European trips, read my pieces about Duisburg, Noordwijk, Friesland, Prague, The Vaucluse, Scotland, and Amsterdam-Noord.
(Lago Maggiore picture below also by Mirjam Hart)
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