Malawi: The Complete Travel Guide to Africa’s Most Underrated Destination

Malawi is one of Africa’s most surprising travel destinations. The country is safe, English is widely spoken and it boasts several excellent safari parks. It’s greatest asset however, is Lake Malawi. Roughly the size of Belgium, this vast lake is an attraction that even far more popular neighbours like Tanzania and Zambia struggle to match. In the world’s most biodiverse lake, you can snorkel through schools of colourful fish, relax in beautiful lakeside resorts and enjoy beaches that feel more Mediterranean than African. After two extensive trips through Malawi, I decided to bundle everything I learned into one comprehensive travel guide.

Malawi is what many would call an “emerging destination”. This quickly became clear to me when I first landed in Blantyre in 2019. With barely six flights a day, this is a tiny airport – you can walk straight from the plane to immigration. The airport in the capital Lilongwe is slightly larger, but not by much. Don’t expect any mass tourism here.

This is surprising, because Malawi should be far more popular. The combination of attractions it can offer in a single trip is difficult to find anywhere else in Southern Africa. Neighbours Tanzania and Zambia for example, are world-class safari destinations, and both countries also border the almost equally beautiful Lake Tanganyika. The problem with this lake is that it lies so far from all the famous wildlife reserves, you’ll have to plan your entire itinerary around a visit.

Malawi’s attractions are packed into a much more compact area, which means you won’t lose days or hundreds of extra dollars on transport. You’ll drive through magical landscapes, explore thousands of square miles of untouched African wilderness, and watch sunsets over Lake Malawi that look like paintings. In just two weeks, you can easily combine a beach holiday with a excellent safari and even a multi-day trek through the mountains.

 

 

The range of accommodation in Malawi is not enormous, but almost every region offers some charming hotels, excellent safari lodges or beautiful lakeside resorts. There are even a handful of uninhabited islands available to sip cocktails on. The Malawians themselves are another major asset. They’re almost unimaginably friendly and helpful – the reason the country is known as “The Warm Heart of Africa“. You can easily strike up conversations on the local market, vendors are rarely pushy and as long as you avoid wandering through deserted alleyways at night, you won’t have to worry about safety much.

The country’s main challenge is its infrastructure, which still lags behind in some areas. Many roads are riddled with potholes or remain unpaved, and fuel is significantly more expensive than what you’d expect based on the average income. Independent travellers will occasionally have to improvise, but in return they’ll discover one of the most authentic and versatile destinations in Africa. This guide will take you through the very best places Malawi has to offer. There’s a lot to cover, so let’s get this show on the road.

 

1. Lake Malawi: Malawi’s most unique natural attraction

The scale of Lake Malawi is difficult to grasp on a map, but anyone who has ever flown over it knows how enormous it actually is. After a while, the shores disappear from view and you seem to float above an endless sea instead of a lake. With an area of almost 30,000 km² and a maximum depth of more than 700 meters, it’s one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world.

Along its shores, Lake Malawi often feels more like a Mediterranean coastline than an inland lake. You’ll find long sandy beaches, jagged rocky islands, sheltered bays and wooded hills that seem to rise directly from the water. In many places, the water is so clear you can spot hundreds of fish from the jetty.

Lake Malawi is an aquatic Garden of Eden: one of the most unique freshwater ecosystems on Earth. There are more species of fish here than in all the rivers and lakes of Europe and North America combined, and a significant proportion of them are African cichlids that are found nowhere else. These are colourful and active fish – the literal wet dream of many aquarium enthusiasts – that protect their young by keeping them in their own mouths for weeks (that’s real love for you). If you jump into the water in the right place, you can swim through whole schools of dozens of species. It almost feels like you’re snorkelling above a coral reef. Almost nowhere else in the world can you get this kind of experience in freshwater.

Most visitors see Lake Malawi for the first time in Cape Maclear. This is the main tourist hub in the southern part of the lake, which is located along a sandy beach on a green peninsula. Cape Maclear is part of Lake Malawi National Park: the first protected freshwater reserve in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here you can see the local fishermen at work, hop on a ferry to the nearby islands and snorkel among the fish on the rocky shores just outside the village.

The fishermen themselves are also part of Lake Malawi’s magic. Every evening, a whole fleet of small boats heads out onto the lake to spend the long night. With improvised lamps simulating the moonlight, they lure fish to the surface and into their nets. Because of the hundreds of small lights, the entire Milky Way seems to be reflected in the water at night. It’s a fantastic sight to watch from the beach, and the reason Lake Malawi is called “The Lake of Stars“.

 

2. Likoma Island: Malawi’s secluded paradise

Likoma is an island in Lake Malawi that lies just off the coast of Mozambique, yet it still belongs to Malawi. Because of this geographical isolation, it’s surprisingly little visited. This is a shame, because the experiences you get there are unique. Only ten thousand people live on the island. As a result, everyone knows everyone and the atmosphere is friendly and accessible.

On Likoma Island, you can sunbathe on white sandy beaches with the green hills of Mozambique in the background, and drink beers under huge baobabs. You can try your hand at numerous water activities and here too you can snorkel among the cichlids to your heart’s content.

The rest of the island also deserves exploration. Likoma is surprisingly safe, and you can stroll through the tiny villages at leisure. The largest town (read: the least small village) is located on the east side of the island and called Chipyela (which means “Place of Burning” because they used to set witches on fire there, but it’s quite pleasant now). This is where you’ll find most of the souvenir shops and cafes. Just outside of town is the island’s strangest attraction: the huge St. Peter’s Cathedral. This is the largest church in Malawi, built by Scottish missionaries back in the day. Those who get the chance to attend Sunday mass should definitely do so: the church will be packed and if you’re not too shy you can even introduce yourself to the crowd. Likoma is the perfect place to interact with the local communities – you’ll be miles away from them in the safari parks.

 

Likoma’s absolute premier resort (and probably Malawi’s as well) is Kaya Mawa, located on a paradise beach in the south of the island. Some rooms were literally carved out of the rocks, they all have their own sun deck and they look like the romantic luxury version of the Flintstones house. The restaurant is arguably the best in the country and the staff are fantastic – including the lovely Belgian Katrijn who makes sure everything runs smoothly. What makes Kaya Mawa so unique to me is that the beach is not privatised. There are local fishermen working all day long, who you can just hang out with. Nearby is Katundu: a studio where they make and sell colourful handmade clothes – be sure to pop in.

Kaya Mawa is a wonderful resort, but not suitable for everyone’s budget. Fortunately Mango Drift is a little further down the road: a much cheaper alternative from the same owners. For a fraction of the price, you can sleep in a less impressive but still very cosy beach hut. There’s always something going on in the pleasant bar and they serve more than decent food as well.

Pure Likoma is in between the two in terms of price, and is an architectural gem: a six-room venue that was largely built from recycled fishing boats. The result is a very romantic and characterful lodge right on the beach.

 

There are several ways to get to Likoma and they all have their advantages and disadvantages:

The MV Ilala is one of the oldest ferries in Africa and sails from Monkey Bay in the south to Likoma on Friday mornings in just over a day. For around $10 you can cosplay Leonardo Dicaprio in Titanic and find yourself a place among the chickens and bags of onions in the hold: very adventurous but a passionate romance with Kate Winslet is usually not included. For $20 you can sleep on the deck (where the bar is) and for $30 you get your own cabin.

If you want to get there considerably faster, you can take the Nyasa Express directly from Lilongwe. This is a tiny propeller plane that only fits about four people – one lucky person gets to sit next to the pilot. Also an adventure, but one that will cost you a few hundred dollars more. Water taxis and faster ferries exist, but usually depart from Nkhata Bay in the north near Mzuzu. This is a popular stop on the backpacker route through Malawi, but I haven’t been there myself.

 

3. The best resorts and islands in and around Lake Malawi

You don’t necessarily have to go all the way to Likoma to enjoy Lake Malawi. Around Cape Maclear you’ll find a surprising range of exceptional and relatively easy to reach accommodations: from luxury resorts to uninhabited islands. All the lodges I discuss here are unique in their own way and I’ve visited them myself.

–Pumulani Lodge: beautiful resort on a private beach south of Cape Maclear. It’s run by the prestigious Robin Pope Safaris and is (outside of perhaps Kaya Mawa) the most luxurious boutique resort on the lake. The lodges are the size of a house and offer every comfort The restaurant is excellent and speedboat tours are offered every day. These trips allow you to watch fish eagles hunting, go to some of the best snorkelling spots and watch the sun sink into the lake in pastel colours.

–Blue Zebra Island Lodge: Blue Zebra is located a few hours from Cape Maclear on Nankoma Island on the west shore of the lake. The island is beautiful, used exclusively by the lodge and is fantastic to explore. There are several thousand-year-old fig trees with gnarly roots you can almost stand up under. The luxury tents are top notch and of course all kinds of water and snorkelling activities are offered. When I was there, there was a bush baby living under the restaurant roof, who begged the waiters for bananas every night.

 

–Mumbo Island: Blue Zebra and Pumulani are high-end lodges, but even with a smaller budget you can book unique experiences on the lake. Mumbo is a small but absolutely gorgeous island you can reach in an hour’s boat ride from Cape Maclear. It’s run by Kayak Africa and is completely off the grid. That means no electricity, no internet and no phone (you can charge yours in the kitchen by using a solar panel though). You sleep in charming bamboo huts that are set up with the door facing the water, including a hammock to doze off in. On the beach and under the wooden bridge you can snorkel between the cichlids and you can go around the entire island in a kayak. There are even some crocodile sized (I might be exaggerating a bit here) monitor lizards chilling on the beach – don’t bother them and you’ll probably survive.

–Domwe Island: this is a much larger island near Cape McClear. Domwe is also run by Kayak Africa and can best be described as Mumbo’s more budget-friendly sibling. You sleep in comfortable standard tents and can even set up your own. Where Mumbo is mainly about snorkelling and relaxation, Domwe feels much more adventurous. A number of hiking trails run across the densely forested island, taking you to some impressive viewpoints. Between the rocks at the foot of the camp lives a family of dassies. These are strange little creatures that look like slightly annoyed guinea pigs, but for some reason are related to the African elephant.

 

4. Liwonde National Park & Majete Wildlife Reserve: from empty parks to Big Five safari destinations

In the early 2000s, you could visit several safari parks in Malawi where – apart from a stray monkey here and there – there was no game to be found. Everything on two or more legs had been poached or eaten. This changed in 2003 when Majete was taken over by the conservation NGO African Parks. That same year, both armed rangers and rhinos were moved into the reserve. A few years later, hundreds of elephants followed and in 2012 lions were introduced. Since then, they’ve started managing two of the country’s other parks. Wildlife populations in Malawi are now recovering so successfully that animals regularly have to be relocated to different parks. Both Majete and Liwonde are now textbook examples of how nature restoration should work.

Liwonde National Park is currently considered by many visitors to be the most complete safari experience in Malawi. This is because it’s less densely forested than the other parks and the Shire River is at its widest here. This makes wildlife easier to spot, both on game drives and during the wonderfully relaxing river safaris. Liwonde is a beautiful Big Five park, with open floodplains where elephants, antelope and buffalo regularly wander down to the water. The elephant and hippo populations are huge, and you can spot lions and buffaloes quite easily. For rhinos and leopards, you’ll have to be lucky. Sunsets are the most beautiful time of the day. You can open a beer with your guide along the river and watch the sun bleed out over a landscape full of antelopes and termite mounds.

 

Majete Wildlife Reserve is another popular Big Five Park, located further south along the Shire River, which is much less wide here. Majete is mainly filled with dense African bush. As a result, you’ll have to make a little more effort to spot certain animals outside the dry season. There is certainly no shortage of elephants though, and there are currently so many lions they started giving them contraception. The lion population is also the reason walking safaris are no longer offered in Majete. The most unique encounter I had was with a pack of African wild dogs. These are the most successful hunters of the savannah, and rare and impressive animals.

 

In both parks you’ll find high-end lodges and budget options. I will list them briefly.

–Kuthengo Camp (Liwonde): very peaceful luxury lodge run by Robin Pope Safaris, with five beautiful tents set up along the Shire. Each tent is completely shielded from the others, with its own terrace on jetties overlooking the water. The symphony of croaking frogs, insects and grazing hippos you’ll hear all around you at night is absolutely wonderful. The food is excellent and the staff are wonderfully kind. Ask for Eneson if you want a superb guide.

–Mvuu Wilderness Lodge (Liwonde): the second and slightly larger luxury lodge in Liwonde. The tents are set up next to a jetty that runs along a river inlet, where half a zoo worth of animals passes through every day looking for food. You’ll see plenty even if you don’t go on any game drives. Both Mvuu and Kuthengo are in beautiful locations but feel completely different. A little further away from the water is Mvuu Camp, where accommodation is a bit cheaper and you can even pitch your own tent for a fraction of the cost.

–Mkulumadzi Lodge (Majete): the main luxury lodge in Majete – also owned by Robin Pope. The lodges here are absolutely gigantic and have a bathtub overlooking the wilderness. The camp is perched on a ridge above the river, so animals regularly wander through camp throughout the day. Those who want to can even spend the night in a comfy bed in the middle of the wilderness (there’s a sturdy wooden fence around it, don’t panic – although leopards are of course quite good at climbing).

–Thawale Lodge (Majete): very nice midrange lodge closer to the entrance of the park. The tents offer every comfort and the restaurant overlooks a watering hole that is full of animals throughout the day. Don’t be alarmed if there’s suddenly an elephant on the path on the way to your tent (and then quietly walk back from where you came). You can swim in a fenced pond here, and there’s also a resident cat that has somehow managed to avoid being eaten by the park’s leopards, lions, hyenas and baboons for more than fifteen years. Name: Lucky.

 

5. Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve & Nyika National Park: Malawi’s wild north

Liwonde and Majete are the most visited safari parks in Malawi. Both are located south of the lake, in an accessible part of the country where most tourists tend to hang out. If you want to make your trip even more adventurous, you’ll find two larger, wilder parks in the north – but you’ll have to make a long journey to get there.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is the oldest reserve in Malawi. With its 1,800 km² of hilly bush, it’s much larger than Majete and Liwonde. The park is beautiful and completely unspoiled, offering everything from deep forested valleys and waterfalls to steep hikes to the top of Chipata Mountain.

Nkhotakota once had a considerable lion population, but just like elsewhere in Malawi, the park had been almost completely emptied of wildlife by the early 2000s. African Parks took over management of the reserve in 2015 and immediately began relocating 500 elephants and thousands of other animals from reserves across Malawi and abroad – one of the largest operations of its kind. These days, the number of animals is comparable to Liwonde, but because the park is so vast and densely forested, it’s much more difficult to see them. Nkhotakota is still very much a reserve in recovery. Before lions and other large predators can be reintroduced, the antelope populations have to increase significantly for a few more years.

Even more than Majete, Nkhotakota is a park best visited in the dry season when the herds linger around the river. You can currently spot the most wildlife on a canoe safari, and since there are no lions for the time being, it’s also a fantastic place for guided walking safaris.

Tongole Wilderness Lodge is the premier lodge in Nkhotakota. It looks out over the river from an impressive wooden main building. The rooms are huge and luxurious, have their own terrace and a deep bath to soak in. Tongole is one of the few lodges run by a Malawian: Emmanuel is a wonderful host with an almost encyclopaedic knowledge of the park. The lodge also has its own foundation. Each stay contributes directly to education and development projects for the local communities around the park.

 

*Picture by Dana Allen/PhotoSafari

Nyika National Park is located much further north – a ten-hour drive from Lilongwe – and with a size of more than 3,000 km², it’s the largest and perhaps most unique reserve in Malawi. Nyika can be found on a plateau of the same name, with an average altitude of over 2,000 meters. You’re not in the bush here, but in a landscape of rolling hills and pine forests reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands: an otherworldly setting in one of the most remote places in southern Africa.

Nyika is not a Big Five park. You’ll mainly come across zebras and large herds of antelope grazing across the plateau, and you can spot the occasional leopard or hyena. Because there are no lions and elephants around, the park is ideal for mountain biking or horseback riding. You can also book multi-day treks – you’ll hardly meet any other visitors. Nyika is a botanical paradise, and one of the few parks you should preferably visit in the rainy season. The vast plains then turn into a colourful carpet of wildflowers. More than 200 different species of orchids grow here.

Chelinda Lodge is the main accommodation in Nyika. Here you stay in an almost Swiss-like chalet – with a cosy fireplace – while looking out over the hills from a pine forest. Chelinda Camp is a more budget-friendly option.

Nyika is the only destination in this guide I haven’t visited myself. The distances and timings involved kept ruining my plans, but I’ll get there someday.

 

6. Mount Mulanje: Malawi’s most beautiful trekking destination

In the south of the country, you can have an adventure of a completely different order. Here, amid endless green tea plantations, the imposing Mount Mulanje rises from the landscape. At first glance, it looks like the Malawian equivalent of Table Mountain: a gigantic granite massif reaching into the clouds. However, Mulanje is not one mountain but a colossal 650 km² plateau with as many as twenty separate peaks. The highest of these is Sapitwa Peak: at 3,002 meters one of the highest mountains south of Kilimanjaro. Sapitwa supposedly means “don’t go there”, because the weather is so unpredictable – but don’t let that stop you.

Almost the entire Mulanje massif is a protected reserve with its own unique fauna and flora, where you can book anything from short hikes to multi-day treks for a fraction of the cost of climbing Kilimanjaro. You’ll also encounter far fewer people on the way. Scattered across the plateau are several simple mountain huts where hikers can spend the night. This allows you to trek through the reserve for days without having to go down again. The Skyline Path is a one-day trek taking you through the woods to Chambe Hut. This is a rustic mountain hut at 1,800m altitude overlooking Chambe Peak. The western face of that peak forms the longest continuous rock climb in Africa: nearly 1,700 metres of almost vertical granite. Those up for the challenge should probably start training today. The trek to the top of Sapitwa takes three to four days.

I hiked a part of the mountain with David, owner of Trek Mulanje Tours. This is a Malawian-run company offering all kinds of treks and mountain activities on Mulanje – including guides, porters, access to the huts and food. Together we hiked towards the Dziwe la Nkhalamba Waterfalls. These twin waterfalls cascade into a rocky natural pool: a wonderful little hidden oasis where you can go for a swim. David can put together week-long treks for you and works exclusively with locals – highly recommended.

 

7. The Zomba Plateau: highlands and rainforests in Malawi

South of Liwonde lies the town of Zomba. In days gone by, this was the Malawian capital and apparently one of the more beautiful colonial cities in British Africa. Today it’s a somewhat dusty town with a lively market. Most visitors are mainly interested in the huge mountain next to it. The Zomba Plateau rises up to 2,000 meters above the city, offering a much more accessible alternative to Mulanje. The hikes on the plateau are far less demanding and therefore accessible to almost everyone. You walk through dense pine forests and local villages, and along dizzying cliffs (including the Queen’s View and Emperor’s View) from which you can look out over the landscape for tens of miles. Together, these ingredients make Zomba one of the most popular hiking destinations in Malawi.

One of my favourite accommodations in Malawi is also on the plateau. The Zomba Forest Lodge – reached after a few miles of bouncing along a winding dirt road – is a colourful old house with five guest rooms. It’s run by the British couple Tom & Petal and is set in a fantastic garden in the middle of six hectares of protected rainforest. If you sit down in the armchairs here with a gin & tonic, you’ll see dozens of gorgeous little birds flying from flower to flower. Every day a whole troop of Blue Monkeys crashes through the garden, foraging for fruits and nuts.

 

Staying at Forest Lodge is a surprisingly social experience. They serve some of the best food in the country, and every evening you can enjoy it with the other guests at one long table. The lodge is completely off-the-grid. At night, everything is lit with candles and a couple of solar-powered lights. Lovely place.

Petal & Tom are an active part of the local community and are at the forefront of several social and environmental projects. Through their Zomba TREEZ project, they’ve reforested over 250 hectares of the plateau with native trees, together with the surrounding villages. Residents receive an annual payment for each tree on their land, which greatly slows down deforestation.

This reforestation project has had very tangible benefits for the locals. The restoration of vegetation on the upper slopes of the plateau allows more drinking water to flow to the villages and slows down mudslides during heavy storms. Interested in the project, or keen to explore the plateau? Tom & Petal can provide you with a local guide or show you around themselves on quieter days.

 

8. Lilongwe & Blantyre: Malawi’s two main cities

Malawi is far from a city break destination. The main cities are handy if you need something specific – my camera charger suddenly stopped working in Majete, for example – but otherwise they’re mainly places where you land or drive through on your way to somewhere else. Outside of Zomba, most travellers will only encounter two major cities: the capital Lilongwe and Blantyre. I’ll list their most important sights.

Lilongwe is the political centre of Malawi and the gateway to Lake Malawi and the north. It’s a sprawling city, where the huge Old Town Market is especially interesting to visit. The biggest attraction for tourists is the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre. This is a surprisingly lush 70-hectare nature reserve right in the city, and plays an absolutely crucial role in Malawi’s conservation efforts. For decades, the centre has cared for injured, rescued and orphaned wild animals. You don’t get to see them on a standard visit these days, because the place focuses entirely on the animals’ welfare. They do have a volunteer program running, so you can always apply and work on the premises for a while. Looked fun and rewarding.

For those looking to get their bearings after the long flight to Lilongwe, the most peaceful place in the entire capital is just a forty-five minute drive from the airport. Kumbali Country Lodge is an eco-lodge with a great restaurant, located in a gorgeous 600-hectare estate. You can spot wildebeest, zebras and sable antelopes (and soon giraffes as well) in the small but atmospheric game reserve, visit the banana plantation and above all acclimatise far away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The lodge is partly managed by a Belgian named Ian (who speaks fluent Chichewa), and they recently completed a conference centre that looks like a castle, battlements included.

 

Blantyre is located in a more dramatic setting in the south. It’s the oldest city in Malawi and has traditionally been the financial heart of the country. The beautiful St. Michael and All Angels Church is quite photogenic, but as far as I’m concerned the two nicest places to visit are outside the city.

Game Haven Lodge is a unique stay half an hour’s drive from Blantyre. They have a nine-hole golf course on a private game reserve. This means you can practise your swing between the zebras and wildebeest. You can also walk or cycle around on your own. There are no predators, but I would still advise keeping a respectful distance from the resident giraffe. You can rent a little house here for a surprisingly reasonable rate, the restaurant is very good and owner Greg is a friendly and easy-going host.

Fisherman’s Rest is an old mansion on a domain full of bungalows and gazelles. It’s the brainchild of Wiktor and Sue: a British couple that sold everything in the UK to start a new life here, and they did so in the best possible way. Through Fisherman’s Rest, schools and libraries were built, reforestation projects were supported and all kinds of initiatives were set up to help the surrounding communities move forward (including for example, the production of reusable sanitary pads so girls can continue attending school during their periods). They employ over a hundred locals and help families cook and live in a more sustainable way.

 

Practical tips for a trip to Malawi

 

Interesting links and partners

My two trips to Malawi were organised in collaboration with the national tourist board. Their official website is www.visitmalawi.mw.

Be sure to check www.malawitourism.com for a good overview of everything the country has to offer in terms of tourism.

My Belgian partner for the trip was Best of Travel, based in Roeselare. This specialized travel agency has been putting together tailor-made journeys all over the world for more than thirty years. They work exclusively with travel designers who know their destinations personally and guide and advise you both before and during the trip. They have some fantastic itineraries on offer for Malawi and beyond. www.bestoftravel.be

 

Flights to Malawi & visa questions

I flew to Malawi with Ethiopian Airlines. They have great connections from Brussels to both Lilongwe and Blantyre, with a stopover in Addis Ababa. You probably won’t find any cheap flights to Malawi from anywhere in Europe, so count on at least $1,000 for a round trip (but probably more).

The most foolproof way to arrange a visa for Malawi is through the Malawi e-Visa Portal. Fill in a form, scan your documents, pay $50 and you should get a Visa Approval Letter by email for you to print and show customs.

I just bought my visa on the spot at the airport. This will also cost you $50, to be paid immediately in dollar bills. Don’t forget to bring passport photos and a printed copy of your return ticket. Please check the current visa rules a month or so before departure. These visa on arrival rules tend to change.

 

Driving in Malawi

I travelled through Malawi with a driver, and was very satisfied with this arrangement. Driving by yourself is possible and probably cheaper, but you’ll have to have an international driver’s license with you.

Also consider the following things. 1. Many roads are in poor condition or unpaved. A 4X4 vehicle is an absolute must. 2. Signage can be limited, and you may occasionally find yourself searching for the correct turnoff. 3. Gasoline (and certainly diesel) was both scarce and expensive. When I was there, fuel shortages were a regular problem and there were long queues at some gas stations. Therefore, always check the current situation before departure.

When I do rent a car myself, I usually do so with DiscoverCars, also active in Malawi. On that platform, you can compare different local providers.

 

Vaccinations and Malaria

Check with your doctor in advance which vaccinations you still need to get, and get the shots on time. Don’t forget your malaria pills and insect repellent.

 

Tipping in Malawi

Malawi is a very poor country. Even in the fancier lodges, the staff has to make do with $150 per month or less as a base salary – and those are the people with a decent, full-time job. Therefore, tip your guide after each drive ($5-10 is decent but more is welcome), your waiter at the end of your stay and don’t forget the tip box for the other staff.

Dollars are highly sought after in Malawi because they hold their value much better than the local kwacha. Before you leave home, go and exchange a bunch of dollar bills. You probably won’t find any in Malawi and you’ll make a lot of people happy with them.

A trip to Malawi is almost by definition not cheap, but in my opinion you really shouldn’t save on tips. All the staff I interacted with were extremely friendly and they were working their butts off.

 

The ideal itinerary for Malawi

I landed in Blantyre to start both trips. My latest one went as follows: Zomba – Majete – Mulanje – Liwonde – Mumbo Island – Likoma Island – Nkhotakota – Lilongwe. That’s an ambitious itinerary (I had to take professional photos everywhere, so I had a specific purpose). Most of you won’t visit all of these places in one trip. A more realistic program starting from Blantyre could look like this:

Sample itinerary (14 days)

• Zomba (2 nights)
• Majete (2-3 nights)
• Mulanje or Game Haven (1-2 nights)
• Liwonde (2-3 nights)
• Lake Malawi (4-5 nights)

Those flying in to Lilongwe can simply turn the program around and fly back home from Blantyre.

 

Other trips

On my blog you’ll also find extensive articles about other African destinations such as Eswatini and Sao Tomé & Príncipe.

More in the mood for a city trip? Then read my travel guides on Tokyo, Kanazawa, Seoul, Lucerne, Prague or Ostrava.

Looking to visit my country of Belgium? The most complete online travel guide about my home city of Antwerp is also on this blog.