Liège went through a quiet metamorphosis in recent years. After a long-overdue makeover, Wallonia’s most lively city is suddenly looking a lot better. Which makes this the perfect moment to book a day trip or weekend here, explore the streets and sights and shove a couple of Liège waffles down your piehole. They’re way better than the ones from Brussels anyway.
Well would you look at that: time doesn’t stand still in Liège either. When I last stepped out of the hypermodern Liège-Guillemins Train Station six years ago, it felt like arriving in an impoverished industrial ghost town. The square in front of the exit was one giant construction site and to get to the historic city, meant dragging my suitcase over a mile-long boulevard of former glory. Fortunately, this is now a thing of the past. Leave the train station today and you’ll step onto on a fresh, open square lined with sleek modern buildings, fountains and benches. Many of the streets and sidewalks were repaved, and space was made for a new tramline that conveniently connects almost every major sight in and around Liège in one straight line. Only fully operational since April 2025, so you heard it here first.
“Liège might not be the prettiest city in Belgium, but it makes up for it in liveliness.”
This said, I had a soft spot for Liège even before everything got cleaned up. La Cité Ardente exudes a big city attitude rare in Belgium and otherwise only found in Brussels, Antwerp and Ghent. Liège is a city of free spirits, great food and wild parties. Everything goes here, and nobody whines about it. Is it the most beautiful city in Belgium? Not by a long shot. You can thank the fabulous collection of ugly residential and office towers for that. But its downtown is, in my opinion, one of the liveliest in the country. Its atmospheric streets are packed with historic buildings – very different in style from those in Flanders – cosy shops and bars. The banks of the Meuse, leafy parks and hidden courtyards provide some much-needed breathing space in between. Liège is rough around the edges but rewarding, perfect for a surprising day trip or an interesting (and maybe slightly chaotic/intoxicated) weekend away. Let’s start our exploration in the station quarter – where most of you will arrive anyway – and slowly work our way towards the historic centre. Up, up and away!
1. Liège-Guillemins & Cointe: architecture, history and hilltop monuments
The Liège-Guillemins Train Station – designed by Santiago Calatrava – was completed about fifteen years ago, and immediately became the city’s most famous building. Rightly so, because it’s arguably the most beautiful train station in Belgium – after Antwerp Central Station of course, let’s be serious here. Thank god it turned out looking good, because it ended up costing twice as much as planned. And since Calatrava lives in sunny Spain, he designed a monumental open shelter rather than an actual, enclosed building. As a result, you can now wait for your train in the bitter cold every winter. A train that’ll most likely be late by the way – we’re still in Belgium.
“Liège-Guillemins Station looks fantastic, and thank god it does. It cost twice as much as planned.”
Walk uphill behind the station, and you’ll end up in Cointe, a neighbourhood full of elegant houses where the city’s industrialists used to live. On a hill overlooking Liège stands Le Mémorial Interallié: an impressive but almost deserted peace monument. It commemorates the resistance against the German occupation during WWI, and was ironically completed only in 1937 – just three years before the tanks came rolling in again.
The memorial is a combination of a sleek white tower surrounded by smaller monuments donated by other Allied nations, alongside the imposing domed church of Sacre-Coeur. This is a fantastic building, but currently in serious decay. There are plans to save it though. If all goes well, a huge indoor climbing wall will be installed beneath the dome, turning it into one of Belgium’s most spectacular climbing venues. You’ll have to be patient for a while longer to be able to enjoy it.
2. Parc de la Boverie: art, oddities and Liège’s finest park
Cross the Meuse from the station via the elegant pedestrian bridge, and you’ll arrive in Parc de la Boverie. This is a large and peaceful park on an island in the river, and a popular spot for locals to unwind. Near the aviary – where oddly enough sculptures have replaced the birds – stands the Tour Cybernétique. At first glance it looks like just another large antenna, but it’s actually an interactive artwork from the sixties. The tower collects data on noise levels, light, humidity and wind using microphones and sensors. Depending on those values, parts can move, lights may flicker and occasionally the structure even plays a song. This is of course is all very nice, but when I was there it didn’t do anything at all. Not enough wind, I guess.
The park’s main attraction is Museum La Boverie, housed in a stately former palace. It serves as Liège’s museum of fine arts. The collection isn’t particularly huge, but includes impressive works by Picasso, Ensor, Magritte, Delvaux, Gauguin, Appel and Permeke. With tickets priced at just €5, it’s well worth a visit.
3. Saint-Paul’s Cathedral: Liège’s prince-bishops and their marble devil
Long before there was any mention of Belgium, Liège served as the capital of the Prince-Bishopric of Liège. Here, so-called Prince-Bishops held both secular and ecclesiastical power. Cities like Tongeren, Maastricht, Dinant and Maaseik were part of this territory as well (you can still see it reflected in their architecture today). One direct consequence of this unusual form of government is that Liège is crammed with churches. The most important one today is Saint-Paul’s Cathedral, although the original main church was much larger. The enormous Saint-Lambert’s Cathedral once stood opposite the Prince-Bishop’s Palace, but was demolished as a symbol of the Ancien Régime during the French occupation at the end of the 18th century. The metal columns on Place Saint-Lambert still mark the outlines of its former foundations.
Saint-Paul’s Cathedral may be smaller than its predecessor, but it’s a beautiful church nonetheless – and one that hides a very unusual statue. While most churches make do with Mary praying or Christ on the cross, Liège decided to install a statue of the Devil himself. You’ll find it beneath the pulpit. At first glance it looks angelic, until you notice the dragon wings, the rather sharp toenails and the subtle horns sprouting from its tousled hair. A single tear rolls down its marble cheek, making it seem as if Lucifer himself is wondering why the hell he’s always so damn evil. Well we don’t know either Satan. Be who you want to be and not what society expects of you!
4. A culinary walk through central Liège: waffles, Peket and local flavours
Because wandering through a city is always more enjoyable with some snacks, we combined our exploration of the historic centre with the culinary walk Délices de Liège. The tour was guided by Gilbert – a lovely man from Limburg who moved to Liège for love decades ago. We started in the Hall aux Viandes, where the tourist office is, with a shot of Peket, the local jenever. Fans of the drink can upgrade to a spectacular flaming version at the nearby Maison du Peket. From there, we stopped at the cheerfully named Une Gaufrette Saperlipopette, a hugely popular bakery selling fresh Liège waffles, before heading to Benoit Nihant for some sustainable high-end chocolate.
“In Liège, sightseeing is best done while munching on some local snacks.”
The walk ended with white pudding (which is a sausage) and a couple of local beers. Very pleasant tour, and along the way you’ll pass many of Liège’s main sights, including the cathedral, the Prince-Bishop’s Palace, the colourful Saint Bartholomew’s Church, the Town Hall and the Opera. The statue in front of the opera depicts composer André Grétry – whose actual heart is still preserved inside the pedestal. Just a little creepy, but who am I to judge.
Tip: fancy a good lunch afterwards? We ate very well at Moment: an excellent brasserie in a beautiful setting.
5. Le Carré: Belgium’s wildest nightlife district
As mentioned earlier, Liège is an exceptionally lively party city. The best place to experience this firsthand is Le Carré: a compact neighbourhood just behind St. Paul’s Cathedral. During the day, it’s pleasant area for shopping or dinner, but after sunset the atmosphere changes completely. The narrow alleys connecting the main streets are chock-full of bars: from dark student dives and techno bars to strange private clubs and colourful pubs with aquariums in the walls where you’ll get popcorn to go with your beer. There are almost as many proper party pubs in just one of these alleys as in the entire historic city centre of Antwerp – which is quite a painful observation to make for someone living there like me.
“There are almost as many party bars in one alley in Le Carré than there are in all of historic Antwerp.”
We went out here on a Friday night, and by midnight the place was already off the rails. Everywhere people were drinking outside, windows were wide open blasting a cacophony of tunes through the alley, and the whole place smelled like a mixture of Mr. Clean and spilled beer. If I was still a student and I had a room in Liège, I’d be here every weekend.
The most unique bar in Liège isn’t technically in Le Carré but just across the cathedral. Le Pot au Lait is a legendary pub with a carnival-style décor, with wild boar heads on the wall, camouflage nets and jungle plants on the ceiling and psychedelic murals covering every possible surface. Outside, the beautifully decorated courtyard terrace was already packed by nine o’clock. is a large terrace that was already full of people at around nine o’clock. Fantastic and very photogenic place.
6. La Cité Miroir: Liège’s old swimming pool turned cultural hub
Right in the centre of Liège, La Cité Miroir is one of the city’s most surprising cultural venues. The building originally housed the municipal Olympic swimming pool, constructed in the 1930s in a streamlined, ship-like style. After decades of use, the pool closed in 2000. Instead of demolishing the historic building – something Belgium loves to do – the city decided to give it a new purpose. The result is a cultural centre hosting exhibitions, conferences, workshops and performances.
La Cité Miroir was inaugurated in 2014, and since then a wide range of events and exhibitions were held in the actual (now of course emptied) swimming pool. This makes for a very unusual but impressive venue, more than worth a visit – you can even go up the old spectator stands. While there are a few permanent exhibitions, those installed in the pool basin are always temporary, making each visit different.
7. Hidden alleyways: discovering Liège’s impasses
In Antwerp, the Vlaeykensgang is a household name: the only intact medieval alleyway in the city centre. What many people don’t realise is that Liège has more than a dozen of these hidden alleys, known locally as impasses. Most of them are clustered around Rue Hors-Château, one of the oldest streets in the city. Some impasses are little more than narrow cul-de-sacs, while others open onto small courtyards lined with colourful façades, front-door benches and neighbours who still talk to each other. All of them are inhabited, creating tiny micro-communities that seem to exist in a different reality than the rest of the city.
“Each impasse feels like a tiny village hidden inside the city.”
One of these alleys is Impasse de la Couronne, where we had a fantastic dinner at Le Thème. This small restaurant is entirely redecorated around a new theme every three years. For about €100, you get a refined five-course menu with amuse-bouches and generously poured wine pairings. You won’t find the same quality for this price in Antwerp – will simply not happen. The staff was extremely friendly as well. Absolute recommendation.
8. Montagne de Bueren: Liège’s most famous climb (and a quieter alternative)
Montagne de Bueren starts on Rue Hors-Château as well. This iconic staircase – 374 steps: start hyping yourself up for it – connects the historic lower town with the citadel above and is Liège’s most famous attraction. The climb is no joke, but it’s a great way to work off a few waffles Rocky Balboa-style. Just like the impasses below, most of the houses lining the staircase are still inhabited. How residents ever managed to move their furniture up here remains a mystery – and one I’m glad I never had to solve myself. At the top, you’re rewarded with a beautiful view over the city. The panoramas improve even further if you follow the path along the old citadel walls.
Also nice and much quieter: Impasse des Ursulines. Turn left at the foot of the stairs (just past Brasserie C) and you’ll reach a series of narrow corridors leading to another green viewpoint. You’ll usually have this one all to yourself – and it has no hideous office tower ruining the view. Go for it.
9. Fort de la Chartreuse: urbex at an abandoned hilltop fortress
Historically, Belgians have always been very proficient at constructing pompous buildings, only to demolish them again later or to leave them crumbling down until nothing but an empty shell remains. Usually, this is followed by building some ugly apartment blocks on the site instead and a round of champagne for everyone involved. Fort de la Chartreuse, a few km outside Liège, escaped this fate up till now. It too is an abandoned, decaying building, but this one was actually constructed by the Dutch. This happened shortly before we politely escorted them back across the border in 1830 – thanks for the free building, suckers.
In its heyday, the fort could station 3,000 soldiers. During both World Wars, it was used by the Germans as a prison, after which it was completely abandoned. Today, the surrounding forest is slowly reclaiming the structure, parts of the roof have already collapsed, graffiti covers the walls and empty hobo beer cans litter the floors. Despite (or well, because of) its current state, it’s still an incredible place to explore – and the gate is wide open. If you take a nightly stroll here all by your lonesome, you’re a braver man than I am. Better bring and extra pair of undies.
10. La Batte: Belgium’s largest Sunday market
My first encounter with La Batte was an expensive one. Years ago, during a bachelor weekend, I parked my car on a free parking lot along the Meuse on a Saturday afternoon. When I returned on Sunday – slightly hungover of course – my car had disappeared, replaced by hundreds of market stalls. The towing fine came to about €200. This time, I arrived by train, which meant I could experience La Batte with considerably less cursing. Every Sunday, the quays along the Meuse transform into Belgium’s largest market. Hundreds of stalls sell everything from clothes and accessories to fresh fruit, vegetables and local delicacies. It’s a lively affair that seems to attract half the city. The market has been held here for over four centuries, so you’ll immediately be participating in a very long tradition if you buy yourself a waffle here.
11. More museums in Liège (if you want to go deeper)
Beyond La Boverie, Liège has plenty of smaller and more specialised museums. Here are some of the most interesting ones:
–Le Grand Curtius: an imposing red mansion overlooking the Meuse, housing art, weapons, glassware and archaeological finds from the region. A must for history lovers.
–Musée de la Vie Wallonne: a folkloric museum about everyday life in Wallonia, filled with traditional crafts and stories. Quite interactive and good for children.
–Musée Tchantchès: a small museum in Outremeuse – the working-class district located on the same island as La Boverie – dedicated to Tchantchès, Liège’s mischievous, slightly alcoholic folk hero.
–Musée Liégeois du Luminaire (MULUM): a tiny museum run by a passionate collector who still gives the tours himself. Thousands of lamps are on display, from prehistoric oil lamps to modern LEDs.
–Maison de la Métallurgie et de l’Industrie (MMIL): a substantial museum focusing on Liège’s industrial past, with an emphasis on steelmaking and mining.
Practical Travel Tips for Liège
**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting activities or hotels in this particular section. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a tour or hotel in Liège, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**
Where to stay in Liège:
During my weekend in Liège, I stayed at YUST Liège. This is a modern and very social hotel with stylish communal spaces and a rooftop terrace. Its biggest advantage is the location: it’s right next to Liège-Guillemins station, which is ideal if you’re arriving by train with a suitcase.
If you’d rather stay closer to the historic centre, these are some other excellent options:
–Pentahotel Liège: I stayed here once years ago. A hip, urban hotel with a lively bar and a location much closer to the old town.
–Bonjour Pierreuse: holiday home spread over two historic buildings with just six rooms. It’s right in the city centre but still tucked away in a quiet spot. The garden overlooks the green slopes of the citadel.
–Hotel Neuvice: stylish boutique hotel in another beautifully restored historic building, located right in the heart of the old town.
Tours and activities in Liège:
Liège doesn’t overwhelm you with organised tours, but there are still some interesting ways to explore beyond wandering on your own.
Guided walking tours of the historic centre are available and usually focus on the cathedral, the Prince-Bishops’ Palace, the Carré district and the slopes of the citadel. These are a good option if you want a compact introduction to the city’s history without much planning.
For something more playful, there are also self-guided city games and scavenger hunts, where you explore Liège at your own pace using your phone. Not my usual thing, but fun if you’re travelling with friends or family.
Practical tips:
Liège is very walkable, especially once you’re in the historic centre. Most of the main sights covered in this article are within reasonable walking distance of each other. If you want to save some energy (or your knees), public transport is reliable and inexpensive.
Liège-Guillemins is the main transport hub and one of Belgium’s most important train stations, with fast connections to Brussels, Antwerp, Germany and the Netherlands. Arriving by train is by far the easiest option.
About this article:
This article was realised with the help of Visit Wallonia and their ever-charming press contact Margo. For more inspiration: check the Visit Wallonia website.
Looking for more ideas in the region? Read about my trips to Namur, Tournai, Mons, Waterloo, Gaume, Viroinval and Spa, or go for something completely different and take a Charleroi Safari.
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