Kanazawa is a medium-sized city on the west coast of Japan, that has been making great strides in tourism in recent years. Here, you can stroll through well-preserved samurai and geisha districts, eat fresh sushi at a centuries-old fish market and visit one of the country’s most beautiful gardens – all far away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka.
Want to discover a superb Japanese city able to compete with Kyoto in terms of charm, but where you don’t have to fight off a few thousand sweaty tourists every time you actually want to see anything? Kanazawa is where you need to be. This is the perfect low-key alternative to Kyoto, and the ideal place for a two day stopover while on a longer trip through the country. Kanazawa is a coastal town by the Sea of Japan, just beyond the Japanese Alps (yes, Japan has its own Alps). Since about a decade, you can get here directly from Tokyo Station by hopping on the fantastic Shinkansen bullet train. The ride will take you about 2.5 hours and the beautiful mountain views that come with it are free of charge. Since this direct connection was established, the city became way more popular with both Japanese and foreign tourists, but it still doesn’t feel busy at all. It may not have thousands of temples like Kyoto – which is just two hours away by train as well – but there’s a beautiful castle to visit, as well as an authentic samurai neighbourhood and multiple tea house districts full of elegant wooden houses where geisha are still at work today. As icing on the cake you can visit the Kenrokuen Garden: according to many the most beautiful garden in Japan. All of this you do at leisure, without having to get out of bed before the crack of dawn to beat the unrelenting tourist horde. Very nice indeed.
Kanazawa Travel Guide: discover the ideal alternative to Kyoto in 9 steps
With less than 500,000 inhabitants, Kanazawa is not a big city by Japanese standards. You wouldn’t be able to tell when you get off the train though. Unlike the majority of the somewhat boring station buildings they tend to have in Japan, Kanazawa Station is an architectural gem that won several international awards. The station hall is under a huge glass dome that lets in the daylight, but it’s mainly the Tsuzumi-mon in front of the entrance that stands out. This is a massive cedar gate whose wooden beams seem to be intertwined. Everything was put together with traditional techniques, so you won’t be able to spot any nails or bolts. This is what they call “a perfect blend of modernity and tradition” in pompous real estate brochures. The shape of the gate refers to the city’s history. Kanazawa served as the power base of the influential Maeda Clan for three centuries. They turned it into a cultural magnet, praised for its gold leaf and ceramics, but also for its many theatres. The two pillars are shaped like tsuzumi: a type of drum that was traditionally used during these theatre shows. Walk straight through the gate and you’ll arrive in the city centre in about ten minutes, where you can visit the following nine sights. Let’s get to it.
1. Kanazawa Castle Park: a brilliantly corrected error
One of Kanazawa’s most beautiful sights was completely gone just thirty years ago. Yes, Kanazawa Castle may look hundreds of years old, but it’s actually brand new. This is because after WWII they came up with the genius idea of demolishing the original palace in its entirety, just to put a university on the vacant plot – apparently there was nowhere else to build for some reason. When that university got relocated in the nineties, everybody suddenly began to realize that a beautiful castle in the middle of an attractive touristic hotspot might have some value after all. That’s why it was decided to meticulously reconstruct it: not quickly in concrete, but by exclusively using original techniques and materials. The first part was finished in the early 2000s – two large watchtowers and the arsenal that now houses a museum – but the project is still ongoing. This year, work began on the reconstruction of Ninomaru Palace. This should be the ultimate showpiece of the entire site, but it will take at least another ten years to finish. Nevertheless, the current castle and the extensive park it stands in are still more than worth a visit today. Free guided tours depart from the ishikawa-mon almost every day. When I took a stroll through the park, there were random eagles screaming from the trees. Bird lovers should keep their eyes open.
Tip: want to see all of Kanazawa’s highlights on a fun guided tour? Book one here.
2. Kenrokuen Garden: the most gorgeous garden in Japan
Kanazawa’s most famous attraction is not the castle, but the fantastic Kenrokuen Garden. It’s been here since the 17th century, and served as a private garden for the palace residents for many years. They took their walks here for generations, watching the birds a bit in between their bloody clan wars. It wasn’t until 1871 that the gates opened to the plebs, and since then Kenrokuen has been seen as one of the three great gardens of Japan (the others are in Okayama and Mito btw). Anyone up for a visit will soon notice this praise is not exaggerated. Everything here is in exactly the right place to ensure the most elegant and harmonious view possible. Cute old bridges run over mirrorlike ponds; mossy stone shrines line winding paths and the whole garden is full of ancient pines and cypresses, whose old overweight branches are held up by ropes. A brand new painting seems to unfold behind every bend – especially in spring or autumn – but the plants were chosen in such a way something is in bloom here every season. Lovely place. Many people will come here fitted in a traditional kimono, to complete the illusion of strolling through a long gone feudal Japan. Kenrokuen is the only spot in Kanazawa where it can actually get quite busy, but a visit is still a must and it’s usually not that bad at all.
Tip: up for a traditional tea ceremony in Kenrokuen Garden? Book it here.
3. Omicho Market: a lively old fish market
Omicho Market is of great historical value as well, but might be a tad less serene than the gardens. Omicho is a popular indoor market that’s been right in the city centre for over three hundred years. Nearly two hundred different stalls found their place here, and most sell fresh fish and seafood (but there’s plenty of other stuff to nibble on too). The market is open every day, and especially in the morning this makes for a lively event. In contrast to the famous Nishiki Market in Kyoto – which is still surprisingly nice, but has mostly been overrun by tourists in recent years – it’s still mainly locals who do their shopping here. Because most stalls also have their own little bar, you can come here for lunch too – you’ll usually have to eat your food standing. Fresh sushi, sashimi or all kinds of undefined grilled stuff on a stick: the choice is yours. Pleasant market to explore, but photographers should restrain themselves. Most shops have a warning that says taking unsolicited pics is not appreciated. Don’t be a dick and take it into account.
Tip: for a guided food tour through Omicho Market: click here.
4. Kanazawa’s historic tea house districts
Like Kyoto, Kanazawa is one of the few cities in Japan where the traditional chaya-gai – teahouse districts – have been preserved. These are atmospheric neighbourhoods full of beautiful wooden houses, where perfectly made up and trained geisha used to offer their skills to those who could afford them. Like in (again) Kyoto, you still have the chance to bump into one here. There’s an estimated forty geisha (they’re called “geiko” here) still active in Kanazawa. This is because the city actively took measures to protect and promote this unique but fading cultural heritage. Those who want to can even book a real geiko experience. In Kanazawa there are three different chaya-gai still standing. Higashi Chaya is the largest and most popular district. Here you’ll find several shops, restaurants and small museums you can visit. Nearby along the water is Kazuemachi Chaya: smaller and less touristy, but extremely photogenic – especially when the spring blossoms come through. Nishi Chaya is the smallest of the three and is located a bit further from the centre. There are still geiko at work here too, but you probably won’t get to see them. In the Nishi Chaya Shiryokan Museum you can learn everything about their culture and customs though.
Tip: want to take a pretty family picture? Rent a real kimono here.
5. Visit the samurai in Nagamachi
Near Kanazawa Castle lies Nagamachi: another one of Kanazawa’s traditional neighborhoods. Nagamachi used to be the samurai district. Obviously they haven’t been around for a while (Ken Watanabe – and not Tom Cruise because none of you seem to understand the movie title – was apparently the last of them), but the historical character of the neighbourhood was preserved nonetheless. The samurai were the military elite: an aristocratic warrior class that held a lot of power until well into the 19th century. That status came with wealth as well, which is why there are so many beautiful homes in Nagamachi: most of them surrounded by an earthen wall and with a wonderfully landscaped private garden. A few of these houses can still be visited. Nomura House for example, now serves as a museum. As the Edo period came to an end, the samurai class was abolished “to aid the modernisation of Japan”. Suddenly they lost all titles and influence, leaving many with no other choice but to sell their property. This house was bought by a businessman who kept it in its original state and had it restored. The result makes for an interesting visit and is surprisingly sober – except for the extravagant garden. Slightly less majestic but funny for a picture: the nearby Moron Café. They have cookies with the name on them: perfect as a souvenir for that special someone.
6. Myoryu-Ji: Kanazawa’s “ninja temple”
As far as the number of photogenic temples is concerned, Kanazawa can’t exactly keep up with Kyoto or Tokyo, but there’s one here you won’t find anywhere else. It’s called Myoryu-ji and it’s sometimes nicknamed the Ninja Temple. At first glance, this doesn’t make much sense, because no ninja ever set foot in the building, but anyone who visits the place will quickly understand. The temple was used by the Maeda Clan as a secret military post to surprise their enemies in. The place is full of trapdoors, hidden tunnels, false walls and booby traps, and you wouldn’t spot most of them if the guide didn’t point them out to you. Taking pictures inside is not allowed, and the tour is in Japanese only (you’ll get a numbered English booklet to keep up) but a visit is still quite interesting. Want to know more about the actual ninjas? Check out the Ninja Weapons Museum in nearby Nishi Chaya. There you can admire a whole collection of traditional weapons. Ninjas were not the martial arts masters you know from Mortal Kombat by the way, but rather operated in the shadows as spies, saboteurs or hired assassins. This is why many old Japanese mansions had deliberately creaky wooden floors. Quite annoying when you want to raid the kitchen at night, but at least you could hear the ninjas coming.
7. Oyama Shrine: sanctuary with a Dutch touch
I discovered another interesting site in Kanazawa by accident, when it suddenly started pouring and I was looking for a place to keep dry. Across the street, I noticed a huge entrance gate with stairs leading upwards. This led to the Oyama Shrine, built to honour the first Maeda Warlord. On the grounds are a couple of separate buildings, and a beautiful garden with water features and stone bridges crossing them. Nothing earth-shatteringly spectacular, but pleasant for a quick look nonetheless. The entrance gate turned out to be the most unique part of the complex. It has three levels, mixing western and eastern influences – something quite rare in this era of Japan’s history. The upper part had a couple of coloured stained glass windows installed, which were apparently imported from the Netherlands. Behind that glass used to be the rotating light of a lighthouse, used to help ships navigate towards the harbour – the more you know.
8. Kanazawa’s famous gold leaf industry
Not all that glitters is gold – my shiny head is a good example of this – but in Kanazawa it more than often is. The city produces just about all the gold leaf in Japan. Its name even refers to this: Kanazawa literally translates into “marsh of gold”. According to legend, the name first came up after a medieval farmer suddenly saw gold dust coming off the potatoes he was cleaning in a well, and the rest is history. Not everything has to have a spectacular origin story. Even these days, you’ll see plenty of gold in shop windows all over Kanazawa. They have so much of the stuff they actually eat it. You can order gold leaf ice cream or some gold wrapped dumplings if you want. This said: gold has no taste whatsoever, so you can just as well keep most of your money and order two scoops of no bling vanilla instead. Shops offering souvenirs covered in gold leaf are especially abundant around Higashi Chaya. The teahouse district is also home to the Yasue Gold Leaf Museum, where they’ll tell you all about how they actually produce the stuff.
Tip: up for some gold leaf handicraft? Book a workshop here.
9. Museums in Kanazawa
Suffering through a rainy day in Kanazawa? There are plenty of museums to visit if you want to stay dry, including the following ones I didn’t mention before:
–21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: this is one of the more popular modern art museums in Japan. The most famous work is “Swimming Pool”: an optical illusion allowing you to walk both on and under the “water” of a pool.
–D.T. Suzuki Museum: this museum is dedicated to Daisetz Teitaro Suzuki. Not the motorcycle developer, but a philosopher/writer who made Zen Buddhism popular in the west. Perfect place for some silent contemplation.
–Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art: museum exhibiting a large collection of art and artifacts from the Maeda period – paintings, calligraphy, ceramics, etc.
–Kanazawa Phonograph Museum: unique museum with more than 600 old phonographs and record players, including rare examples from the 19th century. Demos are held daily, so you can even listen to some of them.
–Dolls Museum: historic teahouse in Nishi Chaya housing a collection of traditional dolls from all over Japan.
Practical tips for a trip to Japan and Kanazawa
**Disclaimer: This article contains a number of (useful) affiliate links. This means that if you book a hotel or tour through a referral on this page, I’ll receive a small compensation for it. All of them are of course optional, but I put a lot of time and effort in this blog so any purchase would be much appreciated. It won’t cost you even an extra cent by the way. Thank you in advance! (pictures by Booking) **
Kanazawa is not the biggest city, and has a very walkable centre. As long as you pick a hotel somewhat near the main draws, you’ll be good. Here are some great suggestions:
–Hotel Resol Trinity Kanazawa: this is where I slept myself. Great budget hotel with a fully equipped room, almost right next to Omicho Market. Ideal base to explore the rest of the city from. They offer family rooms as well.
–Korinkyo: wonderfully designed luxury hotel with a light industrial vibe. The building used to be an art gallery and is close to Kenrokyen Garden and the Museum of Contemporary Art. You probably won’t find a more luxurious venue in this town.
–UAN Kanazawa: mid-range hotel close to Omicho Market, with sober but well-designed rooms and a very helpful staff.
–Hotel Kanazawa Zouchi: small and traditional but very pretty hotel. It’s in the same neighbourhood as the previous three, but offers a completely different experience. Comes with a small but cosy lounge to hang out in as well.
Kanazawa has plenty of other activities on offer. What do you think about a ring making workshop? Or one teaching you traditional pottery? Want to get out of town for a while? Book a tour to Takayama and the UNESCO mountain town of Shirakawa-go in the Japanse Alps.
Buy a local eSIM card before you get to Japan, you’ll need it. I’ve been using Airalo for years. This is an app that lets you buy data in almost every country on the planet. It just takes a couple of clicks. Install the sim at home and activate it after landing: that’s it.
If you plan to visit a lot of different cities with the Shinkansen bullet train, it’s best to buy a Japan Rail Pass (book it here directly). You’ll have to do this from home and long before your departure, because they’ll actually send you the pass by mail and you can’t buy one in Japan. If you’re only visiting three or four cities like I did, it might be better to buy separate tickets on the spot – you’ll have to do the math to see which option is preferable. JR-passes can be booked here. Don’t want to bother with all of this and looking for a full tailor-made trip (either individually or in a group) instead? Check out Japan Experience: they offer plenty of wonderful itineraries throughout the entire country.
Need some cash? 7-Elevens always have an ATM in store, accepting all foreign cards. You’ll want to use these, because plenty of other places won’t be as compliant.
EU citizens do not need a visa to enter Japan for trips up to ninety days. You could basically leave tomorrow should you want to. The yen is historically low these days, so now is the time.
Want to visit Tokyo as well? I’ve published blog posts on almost every interesting neighbourhood. Read my posts on Akihabara, Odaiba, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Harajuku, Asakusa, Ueno and Marunouchi next.
Looking for another Asian Trip? Read my blog posts on Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore and Hanoi. Would you rather go to Texas? Read my posts on Dallas, Austin and San Antonio.
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