Kanazawa is a medium-sized historic city on Japan’s west coast that has quietly emerged as one of the country’s most rewarding travel destinations. Here, you can stroll through well-preserved samurai and geisha districts, eat fresh sushi at a centuries-old fish market and visit one of the most beautiful traditional gardens in Japan – all far away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka.
Looking for a Japanese city with the charm of Kyoto, but without the overwhelming crowds? Kanazawa is where you need to be. It’s one of Japan’s best-kept secrets – and a genuinely quieter alternative to Kyoto. Located on the Sea of Japan, just beyond the Japanese Alps (yes, Japan has Alps), Kanazawa is an ideal two-day stop on a longer Japan itinerary. Since opening a direct Shinkansen connection from Tokyo Station, the city can be reached from the capital in about 2.5 hours – scenic mountain views included free of charge.
“Kanazawa offers everything travelers love about Kyoto: historic districts, peaceful gardens and traditional arts – but without the crowds.”
While tourism has increased in recent years, Kanazawa still feels relaxed and uncrowded, especially compared to Kyoto, Osaka or Tokyo. You won’t find thousands of temples here, but you will see a beautifully restored castle, an ancient samurai district and several well-preserved geisha tea house neighbourhoods where traditional culture is still alive. Add Kenrokuen Garden to this offer – widely considered as one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan – and you get a city very much worth your time. In Kanazawa, the sights are all there, but you don’t have to get up before dawn to beat the crowds to see them properly.
With fewer than 500,000 inhabitants, Kanazawa is a compact and highly walkable city by Japanese standards. You wouldn’t be able to tell when you get off the train though. Unlike the majority of the somewhat boring station buildings they tend to have in Japan, Kanazawa Station is an architectural gem that won several international awards. The station hall is under a huge glass dome that lets in the daylight, but it’s mainly the Tsuzumi-mon in front of the entrance that stands out. This is a massive cedar gate whose wooden beams seem to be intertwined. Everything was put together with traditional techniques, so you won’t be able to spot any nails or bolts. This is what they call “a perfect blend of modernity and tradition” in pompous real estate brochures.
The shape of the gate refers to the city’s history. Kanazawa served as the power base of the influential Maeda Clan for three centuries. They turned it into a cultural magnet, praised for its gold leaf and ceramics, but also for its many theatres. The two pillars are shaped like tsuzumi: a type of drum that was traditionally used during these theatre shows. Walk straight through the gate and you’ll arrive in the city centre in about ten minutes, where you can explore the following top sights in Kanazawa. Let’s get to it.
**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting activities or hotels in this article. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a tour or hotel in Kanazawa, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**
1. Kanazawa Castle Park: history, reconstruction and what to see
One of Kanazawa’s most impressive historical sights was completely gone just thirty years ago. Yes, Kanazawa Castle may look hundreds of years old, but it’s almost entirely a modern reconstruction. This happened because someone had the bright idea to demolish it entirely after WWII, to make room for a university campus – apparently there was nowhere else to build.
When that university relocated in the 1990s, it suddenly became clear that a gorgeous, reconstructed castle in the heart of a growing tourist city might actually be a good idea. The decision was therefore made to rebuild Kanazawa Castle with exceptional care: not in quick concrete replicas, but using traditional building techniques and original materials wherever possible.
The first phase was completed in the early 2000s and included two imposing watchtowers and the former arsenal, which now houses a small museum. The project is still ongoing. The reconstruction of Ninomaru Palace has recently begun, which will become the ultimate showpiece of the entire complex – sadly it will take at least another decade to complete.
Even in its current state, Kanazawa Castle Park is well worth a visit. The spacious grounds are beautifully maintained, and free guided tours depart almost daily from the Ishikawa-mon gate. When I was wandering through the park, several eagles were circling and screaming from the treetops – bird lovers should keep their eyes open.
Tip: want to see Kanazawa’s top sights a fun guided tour? Book one here.
2. Kenrokuen Garden: Kanazawa’s most famous attraction
Kanazawa’s most famous attraction isn’t the castle, but the outstanding Kenrokuen Garden: widely regarded as one of the most beautiful traditional gardens in Japan. Established in the 17th century, it served for generations as a private garden for the Maeda clan, whose members took their walks here for generations, doing some bird-watching in between their bloody clan wars.
It was not until 1871 that the gates were opened to the public. Since then, Kenrokuen has been celebrated as one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens, alongside those in Okayama and Mito. Anyone who visits will quickly notice that this reputations is well-deserved.
Every element of the garden was composed for maximum harmony. Elegant wooden bridges cross mirror-like ponds; moss-covered stone lanterns line winding paths; and ancient pine and cypress trees dominate the landscape, their heavy branches supported by intricate rope structures. Around every bend, a new picture-perfect view unfolds, particularly in spring and autumn. But thanks to meticulous planning, something is in bloom here in every season.
Kenrokuen is also one of the few places in Kanazawa where you will regularly see visitors dressed in traditional kimono, completing the illusion of a stroll through feudal Japan. It’s the busiest spot in the city, but even at peak times the crowds remain manageable – obviously a visit to Kenrokuen is absolutely essential.
Tip: up for a traditional tea ceremony in Kenrokuen Garden? Book it here.
3. Omicho Market: Kanazawa’s historic seafood market
Omicho Market is one of Kanazawa’s most lively and authentic spots, though admittedly a little less serene than the city’s famous gardens. Located right in the city centre, Omicho has been operating for over 300 years and remains an essential part of daily life in Kanazawa.
Today, this covered market is home to nearly 200 stalls, most of which specialize in fresh fish and seafood – Kanazawa is a coastal city. There’s plenty of other food on offer as well, from local produce to sweets and snacks. The market is open every day, but mornings are by far the most lively.
Unlike Kyoto’s famous Nishiki Market – which is still enjoyable, but has become heavily tourist-oriented – Omicho Market is still mostly used by residents. Many stalls double as tiny standing bars, making this an excellent place for lunch. Fresh sushi, sashimi, crab, oysters or random undefined organisms grilled on a stick: the choice is yours.
Omicho is a fun place to explore, but photographers should pay some attention. Many stalls explicitly ask visitors not to take pictures without permission. Don’t be a dick and respect that request.
Tip: interested in Kanazawa’s food culture? Join a guided food tour through Omicho Market here.
4. Kanazawa’s historic geisha tea house districts
Like Kyoto, Kanazawa is one of the few cities in Japan where the traditional chaya-gai – historic geisha tea house districts – have survived. These atmospheric neighbourhoods are filled with elegant wooden houses, where trained geisha once entertained wealthy patrons with music, dance and conversation. And unlike in many other cities, this tradition is still alive here.
Kanazawa is home to an estimated forty active geisha, locally known as geiko. Their presence is no accident: the city made a conscious effort to protect and promote this fragile cultural heritage. Curious visitors can even book an authentic geiko experience, offering a rare glimpse into this unknown world.
There are three preserved tea house districts in Kanazawa. Higashi Chaya is the largest and most popular, featuring a mix of teahouses, small museums, shops and traditional cafés. Along the nearby river lies Kazuemachi Chaya, a much smaller and quieter district that’s especially photogenic, particularly during cherry blossom season.
Nishi Chaya, the smallest of the three, is located a little further from the city centre. Geiko still work here, but you’re unlikely to see them in person. To learn more about their daily lives, customs and training, the Nishi Chaya Shiryokan Museum is worth a visit.
Tip: want a memorable souvenir picture? Rent a traditional kimono and explore the tea house districts in it.
5. Nagamachi Samurai District: traditional houses and gardens
Just south of Kanazawa Castle lies Nagamachi: one of the city’s best-preserved historic neighbourhoods. This area once served as Kanazawa’s samurai district, and while they obviously haven’t been around for a while – Ken Watanabe, not Tom Cruise, being the last of them (nobody seems to understand that movie) – the historic character of this quarter is still very much intact.
The samurai were Japan’s military elite: an aristocratic warrior class dominating political and social life until the late 19th century. Their status came with wealth, which explains why there are so many elegant residences in Nagamachi’s narrow streets. Many of these houses are enclosed by earthen walls and hide wonderfully landscaped gardens behind this modest façade.
A small number of samurai residences can still be visited today. Nomura House – now a museum – is the most notable example. After the end of the Edo period, the samurai class was abolished in an effort to “modernize” Japan, forcing many former warriors to sell their homes. Nomura House was purchased by a businessman who preserved its original character and later restored it. The result is a surprisingly sober interior, offset by an unexpectedly lush garden.
Slightly less majestic but funny for a picture: the nearby Moron Café. They have cookies stamped with the café’s name: perfect as a souvenir for that special someone.
6. Myoryu-ji (Ninja Temple): Kanazawa’s most unusual temple
Kanazawa will never rival Kyoto or Tokyo when it comes to photogenic temples, but it does have one you won’t find anywhere else. Myoryu-ji, better known as Kanazawa’s Ninja Temple, is easily the city’s most unusual religious site.
Despite the nickname, no ninja ever set foot in the building – but anyone visiting will quickly understand where the legend comes from. The temple was secretly used by the Maeda Clan as a defensive military outpost, designed to confuse and trap potential attackers. Inside, you’ll find hidden staircases, trapdoors, false walls, concealed tunnels and booby traps, most of which would go completely unnoticed without a guide.
Photography inside the temple is strictly forbidden, and guided tours are in Japanese only. To compensate this, foreign visitors get a numbered English booklet, making the tour easy to follow. Despite these limitations a visit is still highly recommended – there’s nothing else quite like it in Japan.
Those curious about real historical ninjas can continue to the Ninja Weapons Museum in nearby Nishi Chaya, where a collection of traditional weapons is on display. Ninjas were not the martial arts masters you know from Mortal Kombat by the way, but rather operated in the shadows as spies, saboteurs or hired assassins. This is why many old Japanese mansions had deliberately creaky wooden floors. Annoying when you want to raid the kitchen at night, but at least you could hear the ninjas coming.
7. Oyama Shrine: a shrine with a surprising Western touch
I discovered Oyama Shrine by accident when a sudden downpour had me looking for a place to keep dry. Across the street, a large and unusual entrance gate caught my attention, with stone steps leading upward. At the top lies the shrine itself, built in honour of Maeda Toshiie, the first Maeda Warlord.
The shrine grounds consist of several small buildings and a landscaped garden, complete with water features and stone bridges. Not one of Kanazawa’s must-see landmarks, but still an enjoyable visit if you’re already nearby.
Most unique is the distinctive entrance gate. It rises three stories high and blends traditional Japanese design with unexpected Western elements – rare in this period of Japanese history. The upper level features coloured stained-glass windows imported from the Netherlands. Behind the glass once sat a rotating lighthouse-style lamp, used to guide ships safely toward Kanazawa’s harbour.
8. Kanazawa’s gold leaf industry: museums, workshops and edible gold
Not all that glitters is gold – my shiny head being a prime example – but in Kanazawa, it very often is. The city produces almost all of the gold leaf used in Japan. Even the city’s name reflects this heritage: Kanazawa literally means “marsh of gold.”
According to local legend, the name dates back to a medieval farmer who noticed gold dust washing off the potatoes he was cleaning in a well. Not everything has to have a fantastical origin story. Kanazawa’s gold leaf industry is still very much alive today, and you’ll spot gold everywhere.
Kanazawa has so much gold, people actually eat it. Gold-topped ice cream, gold-covered candy and even gold-wrapped dumplings can all be found here. This said, gold is completely tasteless, so maybe save your money and order a regular vanilla instead.
Shops selling gold leaf products are especially common around Higashi Chaya, one of the historic tea house districts we saw earlier. The area is also home to the Yasue Gold Leaf Museum, where they’ll tell you all about how actually produce the stuff.
Tip: curious to try it yourself? Join a gold leaf handicraft workshop here.
9. Museums in Kanazawa: art, design and local history
Rainy day in Kanazawa? Don’t despair. The city has an excellent selection of museums, covering everything from contemporary art to Zen philosophy and traditional crafts. Below are some of the best museums in Kanazawa, including several highlights not mentioned earlier in this guide:
–21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: one of the most visited modern art museums in Japan, known for its circular, light-filled design. Its most famous installation is “Swimming Pool”: an optical illusion that allows visitors to walk both above and below the surface of the “water.”
–D.T. Suzuki Museum: dedicated to Daisetz Teitaro Suzuki, the philosopher and writer who introduced Zen Buddhism to the Western world – not the motorcycle manufacturer. The minimalist architecture and tranquil setting make this an ideal place for quiet reflection.
–Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art: showcases a substantial collection of art and artifacts from the Maeda period, including paintings, ceramics and calligraphy. Good choice if you’re interested in regional history and traditional Japanese art.
–Kanazawa Phonograph Museum: a small but fascinating museum housing over 600 historic phonographs and record players, some dating back to the 19th century. Demonstrations are held daily, so you’ll hear some of them in action.
–Dolls Museum: located inside a historic teahouse in Nishi Chaya, this compact museum displays traditional dolls from across Japan, offering insight into regional styles and craftsmanship.
Practical information for visiting Kanazawa and Japan
Best time to visit Kanazawa
Kanazawa is a year-round destination, but not all seasons were created equal:
–Spring (March–May): mild weather and cherry blossoms around Kanazawa Castle and in Kenrokuen Garden. One of the best times to visit.
–Autumn (October–November): arguably the most beautiful season (same in the rest of Japan if you ask me), with vibrant fall colours in Kenrokuen and Nagamachi.
–Winter (December–February): colder and quieter, but excellent for seafood lovers and atmospheric snowy scenery.
–Summer (June–August): warm and humid, with fewer crowds – but still manageable compared to Kyoto.
How many days in Kanazawa
Two full days in Kanazawa should be ideal for most travellers.
-1 day: highlights only (Kenrokuen, Castle, Omicho Market)
-2 days: perfect pace to explore historic districts, gardens, museums and food
-3 days: allows time for museums and a short day trip
Kanazawa works exceptionally well as a relaxed stopover between Tokyo and Kyoto or Osaka. Gotta take a breather sometimes.
Where to stay in Kanazawa
Kanazawa is quite compact and very walkable. Stay near Omicho Market, Kanazawa Castle or Kenrokuen Garden and you’ll be good.
Recommended hotels:
–Hotel Resol Trinity Kanazawa: where I stayed myself. Excellent budget option with modern rooms, located right next to Omicho Market. Family rooms available.
–Korinkyo: stylish luxury hotel with a light industrial design. Close to Kenrokuen and the 21st Century Museum. Best high-end option in town.
–UAN Kanazawa: comfortable mid-range hotel near Omicho Market, with minimalist rooms and very helpful staff.
–Hotel Kanazawa Zouchi: small, traditional and charming, offering a quieter and more local experience.
Things to do beyond sightseeing
Kanazawa also offers plenty of hands-on experiences, including:
–Gold leaf workshops
–Traditional pottery classes
–Ring-making workshops
Best day trips from Kanazawa
Kanazawa is an excellent base for exploring the Japanese Alps and surrounding regions.
-Shirakawa-go: UNESCO-listed mountain village with traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses
-Takayama: beautifully preserved old town with markets and sake breweries
–Noto Peninsula: rugged coastline, fishing villages and rural Japan (best with a car)
A combined Shirakawa-go and Takayama day tour is the most popular and easiest option.
Stay connected with a local eSIM
Buy a local eSIM card before you get to Japan. I’ve been using Airalo eSIMs for years. Airalo is an app that lets you buy data in almost every country on the planet. Install the sim at home and activate it after landing: that’s it. Kanazawa is fine, but you really need mobile data in bigger cities like Tokyo or Osaka. Google Maps is crucial to help you navigate through the city and its subway system.
Getting around Japan and Kanazawa
If you plan to visit a bunch of cities with the Shinkansen bullet train, it’s best to buy a Japan Rail Pass. You’ll have to do this from home and long before your departure, because they’ll actually send it by mail and you apparently can’t buy one in Japan. If you’re only visiting three or four cities like I did, it might be better to buy separate tickets on the spot – you’ll have to do the math to see which option is preferable.
Money, visa and Suica-cards
You’ll need a Suica Card (or comparable ones, Suica is usually bought in Tokyo) to use public transport smoothly. You can buy one in any station, and top it up with cash through the machines. It works in every Japanese city and can even be used as an electronic wallet. While most major stores do accept credit cards, Japan is surprisingly cash based. If you don’t have a Suica Card, you’ll be carrying around a pound worth of useless coins after two days.
EU citizens do not need a visa to enter Japan for trips up to ninety days. You could basically leave tomorrow should you want to. The yen is historically low these days, so now is the time.
Continue your trip
If you’re looking for a tailor-made multi-week trip to several cities and destinations, check out Japan Experience. They offer a whole array of wonderful itineraries.
Want to visit Tokyo as well? I made a complete and comprehensive travel guide for the Japanese capital, as well as individual articles on the following areas: Akihabara, Odaiba, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Harajuku, Asakusa, Ueno and Marunouchi.
Looking for other trips in Asia-Pacific? I have city guides on Seoul, Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore and Hanoi.
Want something completely different? Visit Texas after reading my posts on Dallas, Austin and San Antonio.
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