Just 30 minutes from Amsterdam lies a completely different Netherlands. Swap the crowded canals for country roads, star-shaped fortresses, riverside castles and green estates – all of them close enough to make for an easy day trip. Away from the busy city, the Castles & Gardens region is Amsterdam’s green escape, and the perfect alternative for travellers who’ve already seen the highlights and are looking for something else to do near the Dutch capital.
It won’t be a jaw dropping revelation, but I’m a huge fan of Amsterdam. Absolute top-tier city: endlessly layered, wildly creative and a place where you can wander aimlessly for weeks and still feel like you’ve barely scratched the surface. Unfortunately, the rest of the world found out about Amsterdam a long time ago too. These days, the historic city is perpetually crowded with tourists. Most visitors seem to walk the same tired old tour: a visit to Anne Frank, a peek at the girls in the Red Light District, a boat trip on the canals and a few litres of Heineken – hopefully for everyone involved in this exact order.
To relieve the pressure on the city centre (and to lower the rage level of your average Amsterdam cyclist), Amsterdam & Partners has been nudging visitors outward for years, encouraging them to explore the wider Amsterdam Area. This region – stretching well beyond the suburbs (sometimes even to places that technically have nothing to do with Amsterdam) – hides some of the country’s most appealing landscapes, towns and cultural sites. After trips to Amsterdam North, Amsterdam South & Zaanse Schans, Haarlem and even Flevoland (literally a different province), this time the focus was on one of the quieter and most rewarding corners of all.
“Just thirty minutes will take you from the centre of Amsterdam to a quiet countryside escape.”
Officially known as “Gooi & Vecht”, the Castles & Gardens region lies just southeast of Amsterdam but feels like a different planet. Het Gooi is a lush patchwork of forests, heathland and villa-lined villages like Laren, Blaricum and Naarden, while the river Vecht winds past historic towns, water fortresses and stately homes. Despite being only half an hour from the capital, mass tourism is simply not a thing here.
For centuries, this was the summer refuge of Amsterdam’s elite, who retreated here to escape the city heat and spent their summers enjoying a glass of Scotch on the rocks while they watched the peasantry toil away in the fields. Artists followed close behind, drawn by the light and the landscapes. Even Piet Mondriaan spent years in the area – the man actually painted landscapes before someone gave him a set of markers.
This mix of people and backgrounds eventually resulted in a rare combination of nature, culture and architecture, all pleasantly stitched together by quiet roads and waterways – great for exploring by bike or boat. Exactly what I did as well. Let’s hop right in, shall we?
1. Laren: art colonies, Singer Museum & the Laren art trail
Laren was once a tiny farming village where – unless you were in the market for a sheep – there wasn’t much reason to stop. That changed in the late 19th century, when artists began drifting in from across the Netherlands and beyond, eager to escape the soot and smog of the industrial revolution. Drawn by the heathland and the open fields, they settled here to paint the slower, rural life.
This artistic migration naturally came with regular late-night drinking sessions, which led to fraternisation and the exchange of artistic ideas (as well as the occasional STD). It didn’t take long for Laren to grow into one of the key centres of Dutch modern art. That history is still very much alive at Museum Singer Laren: one of the cultural highlights of the region.
The museum occupies the former villa of William Singer, an American artist and collector who moved to Laren in the early 20th century and assembled an impressive collection of Dutch and international art. Today, Singer Laren focuses mainly on Impressionist and modernist works, presented in rotating exhibitions. There’s also a sculpture garden – perfect on a sunny day – and even a small theatre.
“Take a short trip to Laren and explore the landscape that inspired Dutch modern art.”
Craving more art after your visit? The Laren Art Trail is an easy next step. This signposted walking and cycling route leads past former studios, gathering places and viewpoints where many of the artists once worked. Cycling through forests and meadows, it becomes clear how much their work was influenced by the landscape.
Our ride eventually took us to Table Mountain, the highest point in Het Gooi. Don’t get overly excited: you’re not in Cape Town but in The Netherlands. The “mountain” rises to an impressive height of about twenty meters above sea level. It will still leave you with a nice view – the surrounding heathland is even flatter.
2. Nardinclant Estate: gardens, architecture and a hidden spa near Amsterdam
Also tucked away in the forests around Laren is Nardinclant Estate. Created in 1919, this 2.5-hectare estate combines elegance with just enough wildness to feel alive rather than manicured.
The gardens were designed by renowned landscape architect Leonard Springer and move fluidly between styles: sleek geometric lines, Italian colonnades and a looser English garden unfolding around a serene pond at the back. Open daily between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., Nardinclant was laid-out to look different in every season.
Nardinclant’s most unique feature is the spa hidden beside the main house. It can be fully privatized – including overnight stays – and centres around an indoor pool whose walls are hand-painted with scenes from the surrounding gardens. It feels like you’re swimming outdoors, without windows or curious passers-by having a peek at your well-toned bum. Pleasant and insightful visit, but beware of the dog – it very enthusiastically went chasing a neighbour cycling by when I was there. Woof.
3. Naarden-Vesting: explore a perfect star fortress by boat
Some towns are best discovered on foot, but Naarden-Vesting is not one of them. Approaching Naarden by boat makes its design immediately clear. From the water, the town reveals itself as a near-perfect double star fortress, with sharp lines cutting through the trees and canals. Thick ramparts, moats and bastions encircle the historic centre with geometrical precision (check it out on Google Maps for a bird’s eye view – it’s impressive).
Naarden-Vesting is one of the best-preserved 17th-century fortified towns in Europe and part of the UNESCO-listed Dutch Water Defence Lines. The defensive walls are still fully intact, planted with trees and crisscrossed by walking paths. You can explore them on foot, but seeing the fortress from the water – by kayak or on a guided boat tour departing from the dock – will give you the best perspective.
“Naarden-Vesting was built as an almost perfect double star fortress – but that didn’t save it from being taken.”
The guided tours are particularly worthwhile, if only for the stories. Like that one time the Spanish army executed 90% of the inhabitants in a single day – not the best of times indeed.
Once inside the ramparts, Naarden looks completely different. The historic centre is compact and charming, with narrow streets, little squares and an unexpectedly broad selection of bars, shops and restaurants. There’s also a surprising number of museums scattered throughout. Some are quite niche – the Weegschaalmuseum for example, is dedicated entirely to the art of weighing stuff. There’s an audience for everything, I guess.
Naarden-Vesting may be small, but it’s the place everything making the Castles & Gardens region special comes together: peaceful landscapes, deep history and incredibly architecture.
4. Naarden’s Grote Kerk: a medieval painted vault like no other
In the centre of town stands Naarden’s Grote Kerk (“Big Church”): an imposing brick church hiding one of the most extraordinary interiors in the Netherlands.
The church’s wooden barrel vault ceiling is covered with medieval paintings, making it unique in all of Northern Europe. Twenty-two large panels stretch across the vault – the sheer scale is striking – depicting scenes from both the Passion of Christ and the Old Testament, painted directly on the wood. This is why the Big Church is sometimes called the Sistine Chapel of the North (I suspect mainly by people from Naarden).
Looking up from the ground floor is impressive enough, but even more interesting is that the vault is currently being restored. Cracks in the wood are sealed and loose paint is carefully removed and replaced, all to try and preserve the paintings in their current state as much as possible.
Because this painstaking work will last well into 2026, you have plenty of time left to climb up the scaffolding with a guide and take a closer look. Interesting indeed, but keep the awe internal. One slip of the brush, means an extra day of work for the crew.
5. Muiderslot Castle: a medieval icon at the gates of Amsterdam
While Naarden represents military precision and control, Muiderslot offers something far more romantic. Rising from the water at the mouth of the river Vecht where it flows into the IJmeer, this is the kind of castle that looks exactly like you imagine one to look.
Muiden itself is a compact fortified town, with the Vecht running straight through its centre and a lively little harbour tucked in behind the lock. Pleasant as it is, there’s no doubt what draws visitors here.
Muiderslot is one of the oldest and best-preserved castles in the Netherlands, originally built in the 13th century and repeatedly destroyed, rebuilt and restored. What you see today is a square fortress, surrounded by a deep moat and guarded by four thick, round corner towers. It has served as a Rijksmuseum for nearly 150 years – explaining both the quality of its restoration and the richness of its collections.
Opposite the gate lies a well-maintained vegetable and herb garden inspired by medieval sources, while inside the castle walls you’ll find armour, weapons and artworks.
When I visited, a medieval fair was taking place. Craftsmen demonstrated their skills, costumed performers wandered the grounds and one particularly committed extra spent the entire day lounging under the gatehouse as a mud-smeared beggar. Oscar-worthy performance.
6. Weesp: craft beer, canals & sleeping on the water
Just east of Amsterdam – right next to the Bijlmer – lies Weesp: a small fortress town that became an official Amsterdam district in 2022. Little has changed on the ground since. Weesp still feels like its own entity: pleasant, waterlogged and with terrace-lined canals.
For centuries, Weesp was known as a city of beer and jenever, supplying Amsterdam and even the VOC with impressive quantities of alcohol. That tradition vanished in 1920 when the last brewery closed – until very recently. Five years ago, Brouwerij Wispe opened inside the former Laurentius Church, reviving the town’s brewing heritage. Today, the fermentation tanks are right beneath the church vaults, and the restored spire now houses a beautiful bookable clock tower room with most likely the best view in the entire region.
Weesp is quite cosy, but once again the best views are had on the water. The most unusual boat tour here is aboard De Vuurlinie: a literal floating house that drifts past houseboats, windmills and open countryside on its way to Fort Uitermeer. This round fortress, vaguely reminiscent of Fort Boyard, can no longer be entered, but the brasserie next door more than compensates, especially on a sunny day.
You can even spend the night on the water here. Several floating lodges are available, each equipped with a cooking stove and a continental breakfast is delivered in the morning. Didn’t see any toilets though, but I guess the bushes are always close by.
Amsterdam and the Castles & Gardens region: practical information
**There are a couple of affiliate links to interesting activities or hotels in this particular section. These were personally selected to make sure they actually add value. If you’re already planning to book a tour or hotel in Amsterdam or its Castles & Gardens region, consider doing so via one of my links. Doesn’t cost you an extra dime and I’ll get a small compensation for my efforts. Thank you in advance.**
Where to stay in the Castles & Gardens region:
I stayed at NH Hotel Jan Tabak in quiet Bussum. It may look fairly generic from the outside, but the interior is stylish and comfortable, and the on-site brasserie makes it a pleasant place to return to after a day of cycling or sightseeing. Thanks to excellent train connections, Bussum is a very practical base for exploring the region.
Other good options in Naarden include Hotel Vesting Naarden and Room One-Twenty-One, both inside the historic fortress walls. For travellers looking to combine heritage with wellness, Fort Resort Beemster offers a high-end spa stay in a converted UNESCO-listed fort, just outside the area.
You can also choose to stay in Amsterdam and visit everything mentioned here as easy day trips – all destinations are within 30 to 40 minutes of the city.
Tours, bike routes & boat trips:
Many highlights in the Castles & Gardens region are best experienced with a guide or from the water. Popular options include boat tours around Naarden-Vesting, guided visits to Muiderslot Castle, and small-group cruises on the river Vecht. These experiences can be booked in advance via platforms like GetYourGuide, especially useful during weekends and high season.
Cycling is another excellent way to explore the area. Bike rentals are available in towns such as Bussum and Laren, with well-marked routes leading through forests, heathland and historic villages.
Getting around:
The region is easily accessible by train and bike. Direct trains connect Amsterdam Central with Bussum, Naarden and Weesp in under half an hour. From there, cycling paths and walking routes take you straight into nature and town centres. A car is not necessary.
Useful links & further reading:
For more information about the region, visit www.visitgooivecht.nl.
For everything Amsterdam-related: www.iamsterdam.com.
Looking for more inspiration nearby? You can also read my articles about Haarlen & Hilversum, Amsterdam-Noord, Amsterdam-Zuid, Flevoland, or visit all the strangest museums in the city center. More in the mood for the rest of the Netherlands? Then read all about Eindhoven, Noordwijk, Schouwen-Duiveland, Utrecht, North Brabant, South Limburg, Friesland or the Wadden Islands here.
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